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Gemstone
Knife Handle Materials
Frequently asked
questions about gemstone knife handles and nine pages of photo galleries of over
290 pictures
of completed gemstone
knife handles and gem material.
Click on the
questions for your answer!
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Jay, what do you
know about gemstone handled knives? |
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Nobody makes
gemstone handles, so why do you? |
| What is
gemstone? |
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Why
is gemstone special? |
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How much will it cost to start making gemstone knife handles? |
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Why don't more people use gemstone to make custom knives, weapons, and works of
art? |
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Why do people have reservations and concerns about using gemstone on a knife or
sword handle? |
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Will it show scratches,
will the finish last? |
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How do you attach gemstone handles, and will they stay attached? |
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Have you ever had a problem with a gemstone handle attachment? JUST
ONCE. |
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Picking the color
of a gemstone handle
Something special here! |
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What about dyed gemstone? |
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What about heat treated
gemstone? |
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What about faceted or
cut gemstone? |
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I see a lot of "gem material" that is really plastic. How do I know if it's real
stone? |
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What about stabilized, composite, alternate, reconstituted, or
reconstructed gemstone material? |
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How do I know that the stone claimed is really the valuable
gemstone? |
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How about if I supply you with the raw material to make my handle? |
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I'm planning an excursion and would like to look for raw rock for my
knife handle. Can you advise? |
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How big of a rock do I need to make a knife handle? (size does
matter!) |
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What
about companies that mass market gemstone handled knives? |
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Do you have all the gemstones
available in the pictures on your site? |
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So what have you got to show me,
Jay? |
| First, from the Frequently Asked
Questions Page: Okay, I make a lot of gem handled knives. In fact, I make more gemstone
handled knives than any other single maker in the world. That's rock, real stone, not the
plastic stuff that is made to look like rock and then called "stabilized."
That's one of my trademarks. I have a complete professional
lapidary shop nested in the
knife making studio, and I can start with a two foot diameter rock and cut it down to a
beautiful handle, brilliantly polished, and luscious to hold in the hand. Stone is cool,
hard, and dense, and the balance is perfect. I love gem for many reasons. It's impervious
to all chemicals that a knife might be exposed to. It has a
similar coefficient of thermal
expansion to steel (since
steel is a refined
mineral itself) and won't expand and contract
and eventually loosen on the knife like horn, bone, wood, plastic, and ivory do. It
doesn't absorb moisture, oils, or corrosives that might stay there. It's hard, so it
doesn't scratch. Some gemstone can only be cut by silicon carbide or diamond. Gemstone
will outlast the knife blade in most cases.
Some people worry about toughness; that is, if they drop it on concrete will it break?
The knife blade tip is the most likely thing to break on any knife so you shouldn't be
worrying about the handle. But just to soothe your fears, the stones are usually protected
in the critical areas by bolsters and the tang, or they are nearly as tough as the blade
(nephrite jades, flints, quartzes and jaspers). If the chunk of mineral makes it through
the cutting, grinding, and finishing process, it will last on the knife.
About two thousand knives over 30 years have proven that to
me.
I thoroughly test the stone before using it on a knife
handle. I've
seen some beautiful rock that I can't use because it's too friable. In all the years and
all the hundreds and hundreds of gem handled knives I've made (see
over 1000 pictures of them in the CD catalog here), I've only had one small chip reported after
a knife dropped onto a stone floor, which was repaired like brand new.
Stone is tough. I
had one knife client return a knife to me for sharpening and reconditioning after years of
use and abuse. The stainless steel blade was scratched and beaten, but the gemstone handle looked like the
first day it left the shop... amazing. And stone is beautiful. Nothing can match the
geologic creations of our planet for color, pattern, and texture. One of my complaints
about jewelry is that you can only see a small piece of stone, not getting a real feel for
the full pattern and characteristics, and you can't hold it. Gripping a dense
chunk of polished gemstone and steel in your hand is a wondrous feeling. When you pick it
up, it's cool and solid. After you put it down and pick it up again, it's still warm from
your hand. The feeling is delicious, the color exciting, the finish glistening.
There are
other Knifemakers who work with stone handles, and there is a lot of poor work out there.
Guys try to finish the stone without lapidary tools or knowledge and burn and pit the
finish. They misidentify inexpensive common stone as valuable, such as telling a client
that a piece of serpentine is jade (I've seen this a lot). They might finish a piece
without rounding and finishing and attaching the handle properly, that is, with cohesive
methods of jewelry bonding. I've even seen plastic rock identified as real gemstone, and
plastic amber called "reconstructed" because it has 10% "real amber
dust" in the acrylic! Real stone has millions of combinations of play and color and
light. It has imperfect lines, seams, and occasionally inclusions of other material. You
know it when you feel it, it's cool to the touch (or warm if it's been under lights or in
sunshine). To find out if it's real, you can tap it with a piece of steel and it
"clicks;" a piece of plastic will "thud." The ultimate test is heating
up a needle to dull red, then touching the handle. Plastic will melt and smell, stone will
laugh at your feeble attempt to burn it.
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What do you know about gemstone handled knives, Jay?
I make more gemstone handled knives than any single maker
in the world. I can say this, because there is no maker of fine custom knives I
or anyone else I've ever heard of who has made as many gemstone handled custom
knives for as many years as I have. If you think you know of one, please
send me that information, as I would love to talk to someone who is as prolific,
determined, and crazy as I am! It's funny, the knife listings and magazines will
not put this fact in their listings about me, it's as if they don't want anyone
to know this. They say things like "prolific maker of gemstone handled knives,"
not "the most prolific maker of gemstone handled knives on earth!"
Truth is, I'm close to two thousand gemstone handled knives in my
career, and you can see over 1000 pictures of them on my
CD-ROM catalogs here. You can see over 290 pictures of gemstone handle
samples on the links at the bottom of this page, and you can see at least 500 pictures of gem
handles on this website. So just by exposure and experience, I probably know
more about gemstone handled knives than anyone on earth. Does this make me a
complete expert? Probably not, for there are new things to be learned by every
attempt. I'm constantly exposed to new gem materials, finishing ideas, and
processes. I won't live long enough to use them all, but, God willing, I'll try!

Note the white piece
of dendritic agate in monster rock saw. One of eleven lapidary saws in the shop. The saw does not
cut as much as grind. The ground swarf from the gemstone mixes with the special
mineral oil to make a slurry of ground up oily rock-mud. From the color of the mud in
this photo, I was cutting some hematite or red jasper. It's a messy
job! Incidentally, the diamond blade on this saw costs in the range of $700!
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Nobody else makes gemstone
handles, so why do you?
I get challenged a lot, usually by guys that
think they know a lot about knives but have very fixed and limited ideas of what
constitutes a good knife handle. They're set in their opinions, and make it
clear that they don't see knives with gemstone handles in mainstream knives, so
why would I make them? They'll even go on the attack on forums, posts, bulletin
boards, or through other knife makers and in the industry. Why? Because what I
do challenges their concepts. The truth is, gemstone handled knives are nothing
new, the ancient Persians made them, so did countless other cultures. Stone is
the basis for the very first knife, and that alone testifies to its usefulness
and even its durability. I think, though, that it's the beauty and originality
of the application itself that throws them in a tizzy.
Sooner or later, after having proven myself
in a
thousand gem handled knives, even they have to accept the attraction,
value, durability, and usefulness of gemstone handles. Otherwise, why would I
have dozens and dozens of continual orders for gemstone handled knives, and
endless testimonials about the appearance, feel, durability, and value of
gemstone handled knives? Why would I continue to make them, and why would
clients continue to purchase them at a premium? Through the grace and gift of
God, I pray I may continue to make them into my twilight years, so that others
may share in their beauty, durability, and feel.
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What is
gemstone?
Let's start by classifying gemstone. First, the inorganic
earth is composed almost entirely of minerals. Minerals are the basic building
blocks of rock, and rocks are usually groups of minerals. Minerals are the
purest form of material, and some are elemental, that is, made of entirely one
element, such as gold, silver, calcium, or sulfur. Others are compounds that are
made of several elements, but are pure in form. This means that they have fixed
chemical compositions with minimal variations. These compounds are recognized by
mineralogists as standard species. There are over 3500 known species, with as
much as 40 new ones being discovered every year! Many of the minerals are
combined to form a stone, and ultimately gemstone. An example would be the
gemstone lapis lazuli, which is composed of the minerals nosean, lazurite,
pyrite, sodalite, calcite, and hauyne. If you examine just one of those
minerals: calcite, you'll find it's composed of calcium carbonate: that is
calcium, carbon, and oxygen. Click
here to see a totally newly discovered gemstone that I'll be using on a
knife handle with the mineral content breakdown and information.
"Gemstone" is the name that we assign to minerals or
compounds that we value, and nothing more. What makes one mineral or rock a gem
and one that is not? Whether we value it or not. It is a very loose
classification as many rocks that used to be of value are not anymore, and rocks
that were of no value are nowadays treasured. There are terms like precious gem
and semi-precious gem, but these are all rather subjective classifications. If
someone values it, and it is a rock, it is gemstone. Rarity is always an issue,
and not all gemstones are accessible.
You'll notice on this page that I interchange the words
"gem" and "rock." Know that I'm talking about beautiful, hard, polished
gemstones used on knife handles. I use the term "rock" because it is a short,
abrupt, hard descriptive word, and has some weight and punch. I like that.
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Testimonial
Hi Jay,
I received my knives and I can't say enough great things about
them. I was sure I would like them, but they are the finest knives
I have ever purchased. My father and brother are going to be
ecstatic when I give one to each of them. As for the sheaths, what
can I say, they are outstanding. I read on your web site that the
pictures do not do the knives and sheaths justice and that about
sums it up. They are gorgeous and I can not wait to see my father
and brothers reaction when they get them. I am not even sure which
one to keep for myself, they are all so unique. Thanks again and I
really appreciate how well they turned out.
Thanks,
C.W.

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Why is gemstone special?
Not all rocks and minerals are beautiful, and some are
downright ugly. But gemstones are a special group of rocks that we've valued for
as long as man has existed. Perhaps some of that value derives from early man's
history of stone tools. Man's first tools: knives and hammers: were stone. Stone
is what brought man out of the constraints of the animal kingdom. Stone tools
allowed early man to survive on a hunter's high fat rich diet, which allowed him
to migrate into areas too hostile for a previous existence. It allowed man to
build better shelters, access more game, and evolve into an agrarian culture.
Ultimately, man's tools are what made him what he is today. Think about it:
every thing you eat, wear, drive, use and have has at one time been touched by a
cutting edge. And the first edges were stone.
Early man also recognized beauty in rocks. Bright,
beautiful, unique colors, fascinating patterns, glistening polish, the way light
is plays on a stone, waves of interesting differences in texture and form, their
heavy, solid, substantial mass: all
these things interest man even now. Once-living things were frozen in the rock
(fossils), rock was dense, some rocks rare, and some could be carved and polished only with
tedious months (sometimes years) and incredible effort. Gemstones were assigned
mystical properties and healing powers. Man adorned himself with jewelry, and
throughout history, jewelry and weaponry have blended into breathtaking works of
art. Precious gems became the most valuable items man possessed, and still are,
and will continue to be!
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How much will it cost to start making gemstone knife
handles?
I read a statement by a knife dealer in a bulletin board
posting once that for about $600, any knifemaker could get into making
gemstone knife handles. Since I don't post on forums, I thought I would put
down my thoughts and experiences here. That way, the many interested knife
makers and artists that read this site could become better educated, and my
clients would know just how challenging and rare it is to regularly create gemstone
knife handles. This will help collectors and knife users to understand and
appreciate just what the are getting with a gemstone handled knife, and
illuminate how I work with gemstone.
The first thing that new lapidaries learn is that rock is
hard: many, many times harder than wood, and much harder than steel or
metals. It takes at least ten times the amount of time to work with rock
than with wood, horn, bone, ivory, or metals. Sure, there is some stone that
is soft, but it is not durable and does not make a serviceable knife handle.
The good gemstones are usually the hardest and toughest ones. They can not
be worked on the knifemaker's belt grinder, they cannot be sawn on a metal
cutting band saw. The $600 investment to get started in gemstone knife
handles is a laughable, gross misstatement, because lapidary requires highly
specialized tools, expendables, training, and time-consuming techniques.
If you're going to block out your own material, you'll
need a slabbing saw. The size needed for knife handles is much larger than
used for jewelry, as knife handles are usually at least several inches long.
Know of any jewelry that has three or more inches of rock on it? That's a
pretty big brooch! Even the largest solid slab belt buckle is smaller.
Slabbing and blocking saws capable of this operation start at about $3500
US, and can cost up to $15,000. I use six of them. The blades alone for
these saws start at about $700... that's just for the blade. Even if, by
luck, you were able to get a used saw and rebuild or repair it to running
condition, it will need a new blade.
Whoops! What happened to my $600? Okay, let's say you
only buy already slabbed gemstone. You can acquire it at a local rock shop,
or perhaps at a swap meet, and the lapidary has done the slabbing for you.
Then the first thing you'll need is a trim saw large enough to handle slabs
that are large enough for knife handles. They start at about $1000. I use
five of those. A new worthwhile blade for a 10" trim saw of any quality
suitable for the size necessary for knife handles will run you $100. You'll
need a wet lapidary arbor (I use six of them), and they start at $1200.
You'll need drums, wheels, bands, and belts to go through the various stages
of processing and finishing the gemstone, and all those expendables will
cost a pile. Diamond wheels and silicon carbide wheels are necessary, they
run from $50 to $300 each. You'll need several. Wet sanding belts are
specialized, and if you go with diamond belts (necessary for many materials)
the belts will cost you $75 each, and you'll need one of every grit. Just
for the sanding belts alone, you'll need to plop down about $500. Thinking
you'll find cheaper ways, used belts, or a faster way to finish rock? Won't
happen. You'll also need many various polishing methods, tools, and
materials like leather, hardwood, and phenolic custom wheels, diamond
carving points, and numerous polishing compounds like Linde I and II, cerium
oxide, sapphire powder, tin oxide, rouge, silicon carbide and diamond. These
methods and materials are unknown to most knifemakers, and each type of
stone finishes differently.
You'll need sealants, specialized epoxies, equipment
adapted or created for wet use, waterproof safety gear, splash guards and
respirators. All the electrical systems using this equipment should be
protected by ground fault interruption, proper grounding and waterproof
connections, fixtures, and fittings. You don't want to get electrocuted! All
this water and oil mist in the shop needs a source and drain, so you need a
wet shop. Oh yeah, the oil you need to charge the saws that you blew your
first $600 on? It's about $25 a gallon. To charge a big saw takes at least
ten gallons.
And what about the material itself? You may get lucky and
trade, find, or wheel and deal for rock, but the good stuff is pricy. Some
rock is sold by the pound, but many gemstones are sold by the gram...and
when you cut it and it cracks because of a hidden flaw, you are simply left
with unusable crumbs. Invest in plenty, because it will take a while to
learn just what material is worthwhile and what will cause you chronic
frustration.
One final thought: This section was written in April of
2008, and you can add 10 - 20% increase on each of these costs per year.
Gemstone is going up dramatically in price at the time of this writing,
because, of course, nothing cost more to ship than rocks, and the price of
gas is soaring...
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Why don't more people use gemstone to make custom knives, weapons, and works of
art?
I often tell my wife that I don't have to worry about
someone challenging my tradecraft of making gem handled knives. If it were easy, everyone would be doing it. It is not. Gemstone is the toughest, hardest, most frustrating
material in the world to work with. To work with rock, you must have a complete lapidary shop. I've seen
some beautiful stone ruined by guys that think they can work it on their belt
grinder (the mainstay of the knifemaker's shop). Gem must be worked with under
special oil or water, and never heated during cutting and grinding. It must be cut with
diamond saws that run under a special pure mineral oil coolant, and the feed
rate and cutting speed carefully controlled. I have a dozen rock saws, from a 24"
diameter to a 4" diameter. I also have dozens of small, hand-held diamond saws,
cutters and grinders.
To shape rock, it must be ground with either diamond or silicon carbide lapidary
wheels under water or oil. I use six separate wet grinders for such a task. The
finishing of stone is very tedious and sometimes tricky. You must wet-sand with
specialized belts (either silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, or diamond abrasives)
under water or special oil. To properly finish a rock, it must be ground through ten
steps of grade of abrasives, and the polishing method for each stone is
different. To polish, I use cerium oxide, tin oxide, aluminum oxide, numerous
man made polish materials, on many different mandrels and tools, including
impregnated phenolics, hardwoods, hard and soft felts, diamond impregnated
bands and belts, leather, muslin, cotton, and canvas. You can see the shop tour and a lot
of equipment on my CDROM Catalog here.
But it isn't just the equipment. If it were, every jeweler
and lapidary would have the ability to mount and finish gemstone handles on
knives. It also takes a tremendous amount of skill, patience, and knowledge to
work with rock, particularly in application on knife handles. Every single rock is different. Every one responds to a
different abrasive or technique, every one must be handled differently. Some
respond poorly to vibration, but are tough and solid when mounted on a knife
tang. Some are a bit flexible (really)! Some are more brittle than others, some
have inclusions to work around, eliminate from the material, or accent for a
specific look. Some are so incredibly hard that it takes three times the effort
to cut them. Some will check and frac if the slightest bit of concentrated heat
builds on the surface, some actually benefit from high heat and pressure! Some
rock dust is toxic, all is abrasive and dangerous to breathe. There is also a tremendous amount of tactile practice in working
with lapidary carvings (that is essentially how gemstone
handles are made). You must be able to feel the cut happening, judge when the feed
pressure or tool speed is correct, sense the balance and weight of the piece.
Lapidary work takes a great deal of time, which most knife makers are not
willing to invest. You may be nearly finished with a gem and reach a void, vug,
or pocket that requires you to start over with a new piece of material. You may
have to cut a 90 pound, 12 inch thick block of rock into thirty slabs before finding a piece
that is suitable for handle scales. You may have a material that looks stunning, but as you cut it
and grind it, it literally falls into crumbs. You may have rock appear on the market for a year, then never
see it again. And you have to have hands like hawsers, yet sensitive to the
lightest touch, and if you don't, they will be, or you won't be successful.

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Why do people have reservations and concerns about using gemstone on a knife or
sword handle?
Sometimes people ask if the gem is brittle. They're
thinking about glass, I guess. In the hundreds and hundreds of gemstone handled knives I've
made, I've never had a gemstone handle fail from outright breakage. Not one.
I've had one small chip in an agate handle that was dropped on a stone floor,
but it was repaired like brand new.
That is because the process of
making the gem handle is brutal on the stone, and if it's going to break, it's
going to happen then.
Grinding stone is the most gut-wrenching, nerve-rattling, teeth-chattering
experience you would ever want to have, and it takes hours and hours to grind, sand, and
polish the stone. Most jewelers work with a tiny piece of rock smaller than a
fingernail, dopped (glued)
to a stick, and can work it up in a manner of minutes. I use big, solid, thick
chunks of material larger than your fist, and I grind away everything I don't
need, and it takes hours. If the rock survives this brutal process, it will outlast the blade on the
knife! There is a reason my hands are so wide and I wear a size 13 wedding ring.
Sure, there are some rocks and gems that are brittle, friable, or weak. I don't
use those types on my gem handles.
I also test the material before I try to shape it
to a handle. I take a slab of the gemstone (typically 3/16" to 3/8" thick) and
slam it down on a hardwood table. If the rock is going to break, it breaks then,
and not while I'm grinding or when you have it on your knife handle. This "slam
test" rattles the most reserved of observers!
Another concern is weight. I work to carefully balance the
weight that gemstones add to a knife handle. I usually mill a large portion of
the unnecessary tang beneath the handle scales away to balance the handle. It
takes some foresight to know just how much steel to mill away for the intended
handle weight and the optimum balance while maintaining tang strength. This
takes years of practice to fine tune, there is no formula to define it.
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Will it show scratches,
will the finish last?
You might think a carver of alabaster or
marble has it tough. People (usually tourists) marvel at these common carvings, many from
Southwestern native tribes. But the alabaster carver only has to take a chisel and hammer, some hand files and
sandpaper to finish his work. There are hardwoods that are harder than
alabaster and marble! Just remember, alabaster is nothing more than gypsum. Look
at drywall. It's gypsum and you can scratch it with your fingernail. I say to
those guys, try carving some jasper. It will instantly dull files, drills,
sandpaper and even tungsten
carbide or cermet tools. This is why decades after I've made a gemstone knife
handle, it looks like the day it left the shop. Nothing scratches it, nothing
will dull the finish. Nothing except aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, and diamond, which the
knife handle never encounters. The blade is much more likely to show wear,
scratches, dulling, chips, dings, and dents. So the finish on every gemstone
will outlast the finish on the blade. It will outlast all the metal on the
knife. The finish will outlast every other handle
material used on knives, period!
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How do you attach gemstone handles, and will they
stay attached?
I use a proprietary method of gemstone
attachment to the handle substrate, which is usually the blade steel. Though different
types of handle arrangements are used, I make sure that the handles are attached
with both mechanical as well as adhesive bonding. In bonding dissimilar
materials, this is very important. In full tang knives, hidden rivets are used,
and sometimes hidden pins, the same is also true on hidden tang knives. In
hidden tang knives, there may be as many as four pins per piece of gem, it's not
unusual for the handle to have over thirty actual pieces of material, metal,
stone, spacers, gem, and wood. One handle I recall had 58 pieces, all
meticulously fitted and finished.
You won't see the hidden pins and/or rivets,
so the gemstone stands to the forefront of artistic expression. I also use a
method that doesn't stress the stone in mounting (like woods and manmade
materials which are tightly clamped). This makes a full floating bed for the
stone, so post-mounting stresses are eliminated. There are a lot of technical
details that go into gemstone handle mounts, and the type of stone also plays a
part in how the handle mount is executed. A lot of planning and forethought goes into
a gem handled knife, but what you need to know is this: in the nearly two
thousand gemstone handled knives I've made in the last 28 years, I've never had
one standard gemstone handle fail. NOT ONE.
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Have I ever had a problem with a non-standard gemstone handle
attachment? Just one time, just once. Read here.
I have had ONE gemstone handle
come unattached. In an effort to be brutally honest, I'll tell you
how exactly it happened. I made a knife of stainless damascus steel,
and the steel blade is typically etched with ferric chloride during
the finishing. This solution chemically cuts away the harder and
more carbon-bearing component of the steel layered blade,
intensifying the pattern in the stainless steel. After the etching
and attachment of bolsters, I chose a jasper and hematite gemstone
for the handle. The handle was attached using hidden rivets and a
special bonding epoxy bedding agent. The handle was ground and
finished, but the tang of the knife was smooth, so I needed to etch
the damascus tang. I immersed the entire handle into the ferric
chloride solution and waited for the etching.
Now, if you are a knife maker,
this next part is very important. Ferric chloride evidently has an
affinity for epoxy-based bonding agents. I'd never heard of such a
thing. It doesn't outright dissolve the epoxy, it just soaks into it
and softens it. Additionally, the gemstone I had chosen for the
handle had hematite as a component. Now, hematite is an iron-bearing
mineral, in fact, it is actually iron oxide in mineral form, in
other words, rust. What I didn't know was that a micro-fracture
layer of hematite in the stone had also been penetrated by the
ferric chloride, and weakened the stone at that layer. I finished
the handle, engraved the bolsters, made a sheath, and sold it to a
great client.
Several months later, he emailed
me and told me his handle had broken. He had dropped the knife, and
the corner of a dresser must have hit it just right, because part of
the handle "broke off." I was shocked. A simple bump on a dresser
should not have caused the handle to break, much less come unbonded
from the tang! When he sent the knife back, I realized my error with
the ferric chloride treatment, and will never etch another finished
tang!
I stood behind my guarantee of
workmanship and put a new handle on the knife. It just goes to show
you that when a standard method of attachment works, don't mess with
it! I'll never change the way I attach gemstone handles, because
frankly, it works! Some of these gem handled knives have even seen
combat! |
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Picking the color of a gemstone
handle
Most of the time, clients searching through
the gemstone index and color photo galleries are taken by a particular color of
gemstone. Truly, color is the first consideration when choosing a gem material
for their custom knife. To the eye, when scanning the photo galleries, a bold
color will stand out more than muted, or mottled colors or patterns. Also, it's
surprising how many people migrate to solid, uniform colors, without considering
the fascinating patterns of some of the other gem material. Making a gemstone
handled knife is not just a matter of picking a color. There are many
considerations:
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Availability
Just as stated on every gemstone knife handle photo gallery page, I may
not have the gemstone shown available for new knives. I guess people
sometimes think that because they're pictured in the gallery, there is an
endless supply of rock in any color or pattern shown. This is not the case.
Please read the
gemstone availability details below.
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Durability
Not all gemstones can be used on all knives! Just as when working with
materials like ivory, shell, coral, horn, and bone, considerations must be
made as to the durability and the application of materials. Woods, too, vary
in durability, and must be carefully considered for the handle applications.
Gemstones are no different; there is a wide range of durability among them
(see
Why don't more people use gemstone to make custom knives, weapons, and works of
art? above). When making an art knife, or
commemorative knife that will see light use, gemstones of a more friable
nature may be applied and will last as long as the blade. If a knife is to
endure daily hard use, a tougher gem must be considered. If a knife is to be
used in combat or tactically, then only the hardest and toughest gem
material will work. There may not be a type of material hard and tough
enough for your application in the color or pattern you prefer.
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Mounting
How the gemstone handle material is mounted is important in the choice
of gem. On full tang knives, the gem is fully bedded and supported along its
length, and often protected on both ends by the dovetailed bolster sections.
Many gemstones with fracture lines or seams may be used this way with no
problems because of the support of the steel tang. Only the toughest gem is
used on full tang knives with one front bolster and no rear bolster, because
there is no metal protecting the gemstone butt of the handle. Hidden tang
knife handles must be of a material that can support itself in the round, as
the handle piece(s) are drilled in the center and a threaded metal tang
through them is their support. Not all materials can be used in all
applications.
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Folding Knives
are a special application. Since most of my folders are made with gemstone
scales that are screwed to the knife liners, the gem must be entirely self
supporting. That limits the type of gemstone tremendously, and only the
hardest, toughest gem materials can be used, since they're held in place by
countersunk screws resting on a shoulder in the gem material. The gem cannot
have any fractures, weak spots, or geometry and shape that will not be fully
supported by these screws. This is probably why you see so few good gemstone
handles on folding knives in the knife world.
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Price
Just because a client might prefer a color doesn't mean he can afford
it. All rocks are not cheap. They range from the price of going out on a
hike and finding a piece of native jasper, to purchasing a rare block of
precious gem grade material from a mineralogical specimen supplier. The high
end materials may cost me over $1000.00, before I ever cut them up for a knife
handle scales! And after the material is cut, it may prove to be too friable
for use. High end materials are a risky business for this reason.
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Color Variations
There are no two pieces of rock alike on this planet. When clients browse
through my gemstone handles galleries, they sometimes expect to get the same
colored knife handle that they see. There are many factors that may affect
the color of a stone. From the color of light that a stone is viewed in, to
the color settings of your computer monitor, it becomes a variable thing.
Rock varies greatly even within the same stone; add pattern variations to
that and a specific gemstone color can become an unattainable goal.
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Color table
Here are some specific colors and some of the qualities and limitations of
each. This is by no means a complete list, it is very generalized and basic
based on my experiences. Materials vary and new ones come up from time to
time that are out of these norms.
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| Green |
► |
Green minerals are fairly prolific, and there are
great opportunities for green gemstone applications in all kinds of
knives. Many green minerals are both hard and tough, so their
application from combat knives to folding knives is attainable. Jades, agates,
and jaspers in green are of many varieties with many patterns. Some
green minerals (like jasper) take a very high polish, some do not, but
their patterns and colors are striking (like budstone or serpentine).
Some greens like aventurine have small gold specks running throughout
for a beautiful effect. Malachite, which is one of the most visually
stunning green minerals is very soft and unsuitable for high durability
applications, but I've used it on full tang knives with great results. |
| Red |
► |
Red, like green, offers a prolific amount of
materials, hardnesses, and applications for gemstone knife handles. A
wide variety of color patterns are available from bold solid colors (red
river jasper) to mixtures of red with metals (like Michigan copper ore).
Red gemstones often have associations of hematite (Australian tiger
iron), and some minerals can attain beautiful red colors and accents by
heat treatment
(Below). Red gemstone minerals for my knife handles are mostly
hard, tough jaspers, agates, and quartzes, which take a high, glassy
polish. |
| Pink |
► |
Rose quartz has a beautiful bold expanse of pink,
and rhodonite and franklinite have metallic pyrites highlighted with
blacks in a field of pink. Pink agates have interesting color patterns
with areas of reds, yellows and golds, and take a very high polish. They
are durable enough for all handle applications. |
| Blue |
► |
Blue gemstones and minerals for knife handles
cause the biggest problem (I'll bet you didn't want to hear that). Blue
is a hard color in the nature of minerals to come by, and often an
expensive one. Deep blue stones may be too soft or fractured for many
applications (azurite, charoite), or too porous (blue quartz) or very expensive
(Lapis Lazulii or Lazurite, or turquoise). Many people fixate on blue
gemstone because it actually is so uncommon. This is nothing new;
it's interesting to note that the murals of the renaissance masters were
priced by the amount of blue color in them. In ancient Egypt, only the
aristocracy were able to grind up azurite for their eye shadow. Blue
tones vary greatly, from the blue-green of turquoise and chrysocolla to
deep, dark, almost black of azurite. By the way, azurite cannot be used
for anything,
it's as soft as chalk! Blue is generally NOT a color to be used in high
stress applications like combat or tactical knives, and it's use is
limited in folding knives. Labradorite, though striking and sought
after, is a feldspar which has many flat cleavage planes and must be
highly supported, not useable for a tough duty knife. Set on a blue
gemstone handle? Dying (below) may
be for you. |
| Brown |
► |
There are an amazing amount of brown gemstones
that are too often overlooked for handle material. Since many of them
are jaspers and quartzes, they are durable and take a high glistening
polish. They aren't as garish as the bright blues, greens, or reds, and
may have fascinating patterns and even fossil inclusions. Many petrified
woods are shades of attractive, interesting browns, sometimes mottled
with reds and blacks. A very nice option for those who prefer a warm, more
organic, natural appearance and tone. |
| White |
► |
White minerals available for use on gemstone
knife handles are usually in the quartz family, mainly white agates and
milky quartz. Sometimes I've used white petrified wood, and white
petrified palm wood, and it's gorgeous. White quartzes and agates are
often the basis for dyed minerals to attain the color and hardness that
is unavailable in nature (like blue!) |
| Black |
► |
Black minerals are limited, though not as rare in
applications as blues. Black jade (actually a very dark green) is
durable and hard, as is black petrified palm wood and some petrified
leaves in quartz. Some of the more friable black stones used in some
applications are obsidians, which may be a solid color, or snowflake
(with white inclusions) or rainbow, with a mixture of dark color
patterns. Special care and mounting must be considered to protect the
edges of this stone. Hematite ore is almost black, and there are dark granites with specular highlights that are very interesting. |
| Patterns and Fossils |
► |
While a uniform color has some visual appeal, I
find that the most stunning minerals are those with pattern interest.
While you can look at a plain one-color handle for five minutes and be
satisfied, the patterned gemstone can be examined and inspected with
long interest, even with magnification, finding new areas and
fascinating mineral arrangements every time you look at it, and in every
lighting situation. Because patterned gemstone is so unique, it's
sometimes impossible to find two similar pieces. For many, this unique
appeal sets the patterned gem handled knife apart. Fossils are
available in this group, which have even more interest and appeal.
Dinosaur bone, fossil leaves, petrified woods, fossil algae, fossil
coral, crinoid limestone, and even fossilized dinosaur copralites have
stunning visual appeal, and most are durable enough for a variety of
handle mounts. Moss agates have microscopic worlds of interest and
arrangement of patterns, colors, and forms. Some have clear areas with
opaque colored forms floating within. |
| Special Visual Features |
► |
Some gems have special features that cannot even
be described or illustrated with a photograph. I'm adding video files
to the website to show this (see below). What you'll see is that the rotation
and viewing angle and the angle and color of the light makes these
minerals come alive with pattern and color changes. Some of the notable
ones: labradorite (which has labradoressence, a unique play of light off
the cleavage planes within this feldspar mineral) tiger eye quartz and peidersite (which have chatoyancy or a cat's eye effect), and goldstone
(in green, blue, and gold which sparkle deep within from the reflections
of millions of faces of copper granules).
Something special here! See the
fantastic light play of
Italian
Blue Goldstone in the sunlight in this 4mb video clip. |
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What about dyed gemstones?
I used to be a purist, and refuse to alter
the color of gemstone, but as a modern artist, I'm expected to be able to supply
unusual and modern methods of creation for my clients. Unfortunately, nature
does not always give us the colors we like to see in our fine ornaments.
Gemstone is that way, and most of the time you have to take what you can get.
Lately there have been many supplies of dyed gem on the market. Usually, I do
not use dyed gem, particularly if the colors are garish and unnatural. But
sometimes, a client will have a special request for a specific color. I will
always disclose whether a gem is dyed or not, and my methods used to dye the
stone are deep, permanent, and simulate what happens in nature and time. The dye
penetrates deeply into the gem, and does not change. Sometimes, a
light highlighting dye will accentuate the colors of the gem, intensifying
the overall pattern. If you have a specific request, this treatment of gemstone
may be just what you require. Like dying a leather sheath, dying gem does not change the appreciating value
of the knife in any way. By the way, in most modern jewelry, the gemstones are
treated or dyed to produce a specific color. This is standard practice in the
jewelry trade and has been for decades.
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What about heat treated gemstone?
Yes, I heat treat some gemstone for several reasons.
Mostly, it is to effect a thorough color change in the material. Gemstones and
minerals containing iron can often benefit from this treatment. Here's how it
works: the stone is heated very slowly to a high enough temperature for a long
enough time to convert
the iron in the rock to iron oxide, which is red. There may be a profusion and
saturation of red, or there may be light changes that only occur in small areas.
It is the color red that usually occurs. In gem like amethyst, the purple gem
can be converted to citrine (golden orange-yellow) by heat treatment.
Sometimes, a gem will lighten in color or become more translucent. Heat
treatment can also make some gemstone easier to mechanically work and polish.
Since this is exactly what might occur with minerals buried deep in the planet,
it is not as unnatural as dying.
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What about faceted or cut gemstone?
I do those, too, but not often. Faceted
gemstone is the most commonly recognized form of gem, usually mounted in
jewelry, but also occasionally adorning fine knives. I've seen knives covered
with pave (paved) mounts; I've seen simple and clean displays of faceted gems
that simply add a touch of interest. I've also seen knives where faceted gems
have been added to "gussy up" a boring knife, or to add value. Some of this kind
of work impresses jewelers, but unless it complements the form, the addition of
faceted gemstone can make a knife gaudy.
It takes no great skill for most knife makers
to add faceted gems to their knives, many of the gems are sold already mounted
in bezels with pins, so the maker only needs to drill a hole for the pin, and
glue the gem-bezel assembly to the knife. This can look tacky, like a leather
vest covered in rhinestones. Knife clients may be surprised at how cheap these
cut gems are nowadays. The faceted gemstone industry is huge, with plenty of
automated factory equipment, "laboratory" grown gems or "created gems" (technical terms for
factory-made gems), and automatic finishing equipment. Man-made gem material
for the jewelry industry is a huge business, and it has driven down the price
and value of faceted gemstone considerably in the last twenty years. So the
addition of cut gemstones does not necessarily add value.
Faceted gemstone can be very uncomfortable
for the human hand, as the edges and corners of the stones are sharp and
well-defined. Use on the knife handle should probably be avoided. That is why
you see many of the applications of faceted gemstone on the bolsters, guards,
fittings, mounts, and even blades of custom knives. One option is the use of
cabochons or doublet and triplet cut gemstones, which are rounded, polished
forms. You don't see too much of them in this field probably because of their
baroque and rough appearance. This is a shame, because they can be quite
beautiful.
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I see a lot of "gem material" that is really plastic. How do I know if it's real
stone?
I select fine gemstones, some precious, some semi-precious, some
classified as minerals or specimen grade, from a dozen or so suppliers. Some of
my suppliers are foreign or domestic companies, some are rough and tumble
rock hounds. Some materials I've even field collected myself. Real rock is not
perfect, it has irregularities, inclusions of other materials, sometimes full
pockets of crystal, and fractures that have been healed millions of years ago.
This is what separates it from plastic. Plastic is uniform, monolithic, and boring.
Plastic is light and flat, rock is hard, dense and usually glassy. You can take a hot
nail and melt the plastic, a hot nail will do nothing to gemstone. You can
scratch plastic easily, not gem. Gemstone assumes the temperature of its
surroundings, feels dense and solid, has no wild expansion coefficient that will
allow it to work loose
from a knife handle mount. Plastic feels weak, light, looks flat and dull, will
warp and change with heat and cooling. Plastic is lifeless, gemstone is
timeless. Plastic is made by man, rock is made by God. Though man will strive to
create gemstone in a laboratory environment (and he's done very well with
precious gems like rubies, sapphires, and diamonds), he will never imitate
multicolored jaspers with inclusions, nephrite jades with healed frac lines, and
crystal pockets interspersed with hematite, quartzite, and amethystine flow
banding. This takes millions of years of specialized circumstances that take
place deep within the earth under tremendous heat and pressure. Each rock is truly original. Learn more about my gemstone handles on the
Frequently Asked Questions Page
"Why Gemstone Knife Handles?" here.
The test? Take a needle in a clamp and heat it up red hot.
When you touch it to a plastic handle, it will burn, melt and permanently burn a
hole in the plastic, ruining your handle (sorry)! If it's rock, nothing will
happen. Okay, here's a less invasive test. Tap a handle with a small steel rod
and listen to the sound. The plastic will "thump" and the gemstone will "click."
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What about stabilized, alternate, composite, reconstituted, or reconstructed
gemstone material?
Okay, this needs to be very clear: These terms
are describing PLASTIC. In an effort to cheaply create and sell a
product under the umbrella of gemstone, capitalizing on gemstone's
value and durability and investment potential, companies and
individuals have created names to make it appear that their product
is gemstone. They even may claim that their "product" has 10% "real
stone dust" in it. What? Yes, you can add some colored chalk to the
melted plastic, and it has "real stone dust" in it. Please get clear
with this. These terms are describing plastics. Whether it's
polyester, polyethylene, or acrylic, they are just plastic. If you
can cut it with a metal hand saw it is probably plastic. If you can
melt it with a hot needle, it's plastic. If you can soften it with
lacquer thinner or MEK (methylethylkeytone), it's plastic. If there
are any confusing terms like "gem material" or "reconstructed
stone," or "stabilized," or "alternate," or "composite," IT IS
PLASTIC. Some suppliers will even try to tell you that it's very
much like stone, and capitalize off the value of real gemstone.
Don't be fooled or taken by this. Plastic is cheap, and it cheapens
a knife. If you want a plastic handled knife, that's fine, just
don't pay a gemstone price for a plastic handled knife. See the
topic above to find out how to tell.
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How do I know that the stone claimed is really the valuable
gemstone?
This is a very important point.
Stones are often misidentified. I've seen black glass called onyx,
I've seen serpentine called jade. I've seen marble misidentified as
jasper, I've seen variscite called turquoise. It is very important
to know what you are buying; the value of the piece may depend
greatly on the materials used. The only way to be sure is to
purchase the gemstone or gem handle knives from someone who has an
established track record of gemstone knowledge, and that isn't
always clear. Look at the pieces they make, their associations, and
their history working with gemstone and rare materials. This is
often the best indicator of their knowledge and reliability. Any
artist or craftsman who uses gemstone should be able to tell you
what the stone is made of. For instance, is the Bronzestone
actually brown micaceous hematite with feldspar inclusions and
aventurescence or is it hypersthene with chatoyancy? Hmmm?
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How about if I supply you with the raw material
to make my handle?
You want to be very careful purchasing gemstone for any
professional lapidary (that's me!) to use. Unless you're familiar with rock and
mineral determination, inspection, and purchase, you might acquire material that
is unusable. Here's a portion of an email response I sent to a client who
wanted to supply a hunk of rock he'd been impressed with on Ebay, and have me
use it as a custom knife handle.
"Now, about gemstone. On the link you included, they’ve
misidentified orbicular jasper as ocean jasper. You can see some ocean jasper on
my site
here. On that same page, there are several pictures of orbicular jasper.
The misidentification is a serious thing. I've seen
serpentine identified as jade in this trade, which is unforgivable. The
other thing about gemstone is that you must have enough viable, hard, fracture free
material for both handle scales. So, since you can’t really test that slab on
Ebay, you don’t know if it’s going to break. You don’t know if on the other side
of the rock there are vugs, holes or inclusions, and you don’t know how hard,
how uniform, or how tough the slab is overall. You have to have a piece large
enough for cutting down (generally about 6-8” length, and 2” wide), and you have
to have a pair, as closely matched as possible. That’s a lot to ask of a photo
from Ebay. Again, I’m not saying that the material isn’t out there, I’m just a
lot more comfortable going to my suppliers, and buying known material that I can
slab myself. After all that, I’ll say that if you wish to purchase
material for me to use on a knife blade or handle, that is your option. I just
can’t guarantee that I can work with it and it will come out as you (and I)
hope."
Unless you're a lapidary, making the
decision to have me use a particular piece of gemstone for your project is
probably best left to me. If you have the rock and want to send it to me,
let me know and we'll talk. I
might even trade a knife for a particularly good piece of rock!
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I'm planning an excursion and would like to look for raw rock for my
knife handle. Can you advise?
Hunting for raw stone, a.k.a.
“rockhounding” can be a casual or a
very involved process. There are quite a few texts available
listing common areas where certain types of worthwhile gem and
rock material can be found, and the best thing is to get one of
those small books or pamphlets
detailing the area you plan to travel through. Be prepared,
though, as properties listed as open often change hands after
publication of those texts, some areas are hounded out, and
others may be inaccessible. The type of stone may vary greatly,
and not all rock can be used on knife handles.
See
"Size Does Matter" just below. Agates, jaspers
and other hard stones are best, but sometimes unusual types work
well. Hounding may require long hikes through desolate
territory, and hauling big chunks and small boulders (a boulder
is classified as a rock larger than 10” in diameter) is a lot
tougher than it sounds. But the process can be very fun, and
I’ve certainly spend my own share of time in the wilderness
gathering stone.
Another more direct option is
to locate and visit local rock shops
and lapidary houses in the areas you plan to drive through.
These guys have already done most of the work for you, they
often have local stock, and may even have rough material that
has been slabbed out, perhaps lapped or polished, and you can
see just what the material you’re purchasing looks like. If you
are traveling with a female companion, this may often be
preferable to both of you, as she can peruse the jewelry often
offered at these small stores. Sometimes, you can get really
nice rough for very cheap, 1-3 dollars a pound and it can be
slabbed and trimmed for use on a knife handle. Just be sure that
whatever rock you get is uniform, solid, with little or no
cracks, voids, or inclusions of other materials. Often, if a
rock is already slabbed out by a local lapidary, you can be more
positive about it holding up to trimming and grinding into a
knife handle. Some rough I’ve tried simply falls to crumbs when
the saw starts to cut…
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How big of a rock do I need to make a knife handle? (size does matter!)
Yes, size does matter when
collecting, purchasing, or selecting stones for use in knife
handles. Because most knife handles require much larger pieces of
gemstone than jewelry, it might be difficult to find certain types
that are large enough, or have high enough yield to produce
correctly shaped pieces after slabbing. Rocks are generally rounded,
so imagine a loaf of round bread being sliced. the pieces on the end
are pretty much unusable, and so may be the next cut or two,
depending on the shape of the rock. As a lapidary, I'll do my best
to orient the rock into the saw vise and holding arrangement, but
still this may limit the size of worthwhile pieces that the rock may
yield. If the rock has a large vein, fracture, or inclusion running
through it, it may not yield enough material for even a small knife
handle once slabbed. The stone may cleave when cut, which is a
natural tendency for rock to fracture along its own molecular plane
surfaces, and you may not find this out until cutting.
The proper size of stone for such
an endeavor is called a large cobble. A cobble has an intermediate
diameter of between 2.5 and 10 inches (64-256 mm). I work with a lot
of large cobbles. The size needed for most full-tang knife handles
is at least 3.5" long, and 1.5" wide. So, you can see a small cobble
would not be large enough. Forget pebbles, which are between .1 and
2.5" (2-64 mm). Also, remember that I must be able to produce a pair
of handles from the stone. An ideal size of rough is a small
boulder. Boulders are defined as being larger than 10" (256 mm) in
diameter. My saws can only accommodate a boulder with the largest
length or diameter of about 14" so there is a limit. Remember also,
that most stone is heavier than water of the same volume, so
shipping small boulders may be very expensive and impractical. Try
to carry a 90 pound boulder of granite out of the back country, and
you'll get a real appreciation of the mass! Each case must be
considered individually.
Want to know how big a rock can
be? Try a batholith. It's an igneous mass that has a bedrock surface
of at least 40 square miles (100 square km) or more and has no known
bottom! (Please don't send me one for your knife)
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What
about companies that mass market gemstone handled knives?
You might have seen a gemstone handled knife, or a knife
with pieces or parts or inlays of gem in the handle. Most of these are made by a
company in New Mexico, where dozens of workers take pieces of material (some is
gem but most is plastic) and glue them together and then glue them to a knife tang or
handle. The work is shoddy, with gaps and spaces between the material filled
with epoxy. I cringe when someone mentions the company name, as it is an example
of what is worst in the jewelry industry. There are a number of offenses
committed by companies like these:
- They classify plastic as gemstone. There is no
such thing as "constituted" gem, no "stabilized" material, no "reconstructed" rock. Rock
is rock, and what these terms refer to is plastic, mainly polyester and
acrylic, dyed to
represent the color of the mineral.
- They use the word "Stone" in their name. Again, a term to
mislead the buying public, as most of the included material is plastic.
- The use bits a pieces of colored plastic, glued
together in a tacky, amateurish way to appear hand crafted, but it just
looks junky.
- They glue these assembled pieces to a knife handle
(usually a flat tang), with no mechanical methods of attachment, only
glue.
- The "knives" they glue the plastic to are crappy,
poorly finished pieces of junk steel, with forms and finish that would
offend the cheapest letter opener.
- Oh, yeah, they make cheap letter openers, too.
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Do you
have all the gemstones available in the pictures on your site?
Unfortunately, no. The pictures in the photo
galleries of gemstone handle materials (and all the pictures on this web site)
represent the last 29 years of my life's work, and feature gemstones used on
those handles. The gemstone handle photo galleries only show my gemstone
handles, they are not meant to be an inventory of available material for new
knives, they are meant as a reference only. While I do have some of the
materials that are pictured, my inventory of gem and mineral constantly changes.
See some of the latest acquisitions of new
material here.
And gemstone is not like wood, you can't go to your local supplier and get more.
Some of the material is a once-in-a-lifetime find, some is on the gemstone rough
market for a few years and then never seen again. Some is very rare (see my
Nebula Stone page here). Other gemstone rough is
commonly sold and easily acquired. Please remember also that the names for gem
material are numerous. Like exotic woods, it seems every country or location or
dealer has a different name for gemstone material, so gemstone listed under one
name may show up as another name in another place.
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So what have you got to show me,
Jay?
Below is a group of picture galleries of several
hundred gemstone knife handles,
all made by me over the decades. You'll also see some pictures of slabbed and
rough gemstone. All of these
types in the alphabetic index I have used, many of them are
currently in stock and available. You'll notice some types are represented with several
pictures, due to variations in the stone. You'll see variations, mosaics of
stone and stone, mosaics of wood and stone and metals. Click on the pictures to
see an enlarged image. I'll add to these galleries as new minerals, gem, rock, and
stone are found, purchased, or used.
Sometimes I'll find one
particular slab of rock and never see it again! Sometimes, I'll have something
new and exciting that isn't posted here.
Email me for specific
details and availability of gemstone types.
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Not interested in gemstone
knife handles? See the other Custom Knife
Handle Materials I offer.
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