Introduction: Accessories for the Ultimate Knife Sheath

This page is about the accessories I'm making for my tactical combat and professional kydex sheaths. Here you will find descriptions, details, materials, construction, reasons, instructions, and care guidelines for these useful accessories.

I started offering these accessories after a few of my military clients asked if I could widen the scope of wear options with devices particularly suited to, custom made for, and designed as well as my locking tactical combat knife sheaths. Though most of these sheaths can easily be worn on most belts, straps, or webbing on tactical gear, there was a need in some cases to lower or change the position or orientation, add other items or devices, or have dedicated harnesses that could allow various wear options. As part of my commitment to service in this field, I design and make all of the accessories you see on this page.

Nearly all of these accessories are designed for the individual combat sheath, specifically my locking kydex, aluminum and stainless steel tactical knife sheath, what is probably the best knife sheath in the world. I can make this claim because I, and everyone who I've contacted and been referred to on the subject believes this to be true. I'll go so far as to make a public challenge here; if you can find a better made, more durable, secure, and dedicated locking waterproof tactical combat knife sheath on this planet, please email me and I will revise my position. Until then, if you want to understand just what the best sheath on the planet looks like, visit my page dedicated to this sheath. After you're finished, come back to this page to see what accessories are available for these sheaths.

I'm always working on something new, creating some device, component, or accessory to answer a variety of performance needs, and as I do, I'll post the new applications, descriptions, and photographs on this page.

Thanks for being here.

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Limitations of This Service

This is a limited service. I can not make every wear accessory that a client can think of, and will only make the most necessary and requested items and accessories. Because I have a great deal of orders and large backlog of work, I reserve the right to discontinue this offering at any time. I also reserve the right to choose only the materials and arrangements that I know are suitable to the task. Because these accessories by their very materials and construction are somewhat pliable and less wear resistant than metals, they may more easily show signs of wear. I make no guarantees of these items other than I will make them the best way I know suited to the individual need.

Beyond these statements and disclaimers, please know that I have had nothing but positive feedback on these accessories. They can add a lot to the wearability, usefulness, and comfort of the knife wearer in the actual combat, rescue, and tactical field.

Most of the sheaths I make for this purpose are double thickness kydex over an aluminum welt frame, secured with Chicago screws. The screws also secure at least one pair of 5052H32 high strength, corrosion resistant aluminum belt loops, die formed for a maximum 2" wide belt. The arrangement is solid and durable, probably the best made. I make two styles: tension fit and locking. Obviously, only the locking can be used in the handle-down orientation of the sheath sternum harness. The tension fit kydex sheath usually has higher-mounted die-formed aluminum belt loops, so does not typically require the belt loop extender, since it already rides lower in traditional placement (on the belt line at the waist) than the locking sheath.

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Materials

The materials detailed in the following sections are described in great detail. I strive to create the tactical knife sheath accessories with the same diligence and attention to durability, strength, usefulness, and reason as I do the knives and sheaths. I simply try to make the best accessories I can. Note that just like in knives, there is no ultimate and supreme material or arrangement, only the best choice for a given set of circumstances and value. For instance, making a sheath out of solid titanium might be an attractive thought, but is far beyond the financial reason for a knife that will be used in the field. The materials and my experience with them are detailed below. I'll update these as new accessories or evolution of existing accessories dictate.

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Blued, Nickel Plated, or Stainless Steel?

Where mechanical metal fasteners, components, and parts are required, I have several options.

• Blued Steel: Sometimes, blued steel is used in the sheath fittings, mainly in the Chicago screws. These are the domed head fasteners that secure the sheath face and back to the sheath welts. Because of their male/female components, they are also called sex bolts. I usually use blued steel Chicago screws on tension fit sheaths that have blued steel blades, so that the metal matches the blade closely and bright reflections are cut down. The main drawback to blued steel is corrosion. While the bluing inhibits corrosion somewhat, the are still not highly corrosion resistant, so I can't use blued steel for any locking components for the sheaths, and blued steel is not suitable for any of the accessories, as in damp environments, textiles like webbing will hold moisture, accelerating corrosion in blued steel.
• Nickel Plated Steel: Nickel plated steel is much more corrosion resistant than blued steel above, and is my most commonly used material for the Chicago screws (see blued steel Chicago screws above). I've had clients who have had their knives and sheaths in extreme marine (saltwater) environments repeatedly, and years later, when the Chicago screw is removed from the sheath body, barely a trace of rust shows. This is because these screws are plated with highly corrosion-resistant nickel after they are made, so the screw threads as well as the inside of the tube (female) threads are also nickel plated. I occasionally use nickel plated steel belt/boot clips which are spring steel with nickel plate and are also very corrosion resistant. Nickel is very hard, and is durable and long lasting. The only limitations are abrasion or modification of the nickel coating. If the coating is abraded, cut, or worn away, the steel underneath will rust. Modified fittings, then, would have to be re-plated.
• Stainless Steel: For the ultimate in corrosion resistance, I use austenitic stainless steels, usually either 304, 302, or 316 designation. These are extremely tough and durable, and with their high chromium, high nickel content throughout, they resist corrosion by water, salt, acids, caustics, and just about any exposure. They are the ultimate in corrosion resistance on the knife sheaths and accessories. For other makers who may use 400 series stainless steels (like 416) please note that these steels, while easier to machine, do not reach full corrosion resistance until they are heat treated and hardened, which is never done. Even if the 400 series stainless steels are heat treated, they are still not near as corrosion resistant as 304, 302, or 316. I make all my locking mechanisms for the knife sheaths with these steels, and all the mechanical components on the ultimate sheaths and accessories with these fine, highly corrosion resistant and durable austenitic stainless steels. In the case of special modifications, like screw slots for the ultimate locking sheath Chicago screws, no plating or modification is necessary. They are the best, for the best accessories.

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Nylon or Polypropylene?

I can use either, but there are distinctive differences in them. Polypropylene is a thermoplastic polymer, and is extremely rugged and durable. It is highly resistant to many chemical solvents, bases, and acids, as well as water. Nylon is a thermoplastic synthetic polymer, with high resilience. It is somewhat resistant to mold, and decay as well as many chemicals.

• Stiffness: In order to make an extremely durable carry accessory, I first chose 2" polypropylene webbing as a base. I can also make these in nylon if requested. The polypropylene I've used is much stiffer than the nylon. Nylon is fairly floppy, so does not make a good stiffening component, but can probably be stiffened by multiple layers and heavy cross stitching. Simply put, polypropylene is stiffer and nylon is softer.
• Strength: Nylon is a bit stronger than the polypropylene, but both will easily support the weight of several men, so that's not an issue in these applications.
• Stretching: Polypropylene has very little stretching, nylon has high elasticity. I'm not sure you would notice it in one of these accessories, either way as a tremendous load would be required to stretch wide, thick nylon in these applications.
• Water and Chemicals: This one is important. Polypropylene is more resistant to acids and chemicals, and significantly, does not expand when wet, but nylon can. Why doesn't polypropylene expand and change in water? Because water is not absorbed by polypropylene, but water is absorbed by nylon. This may be a problem in long wet wear, as mold and mildew can thrive in wet nylon that stays damp. Polypropylene will float, nylon will sink. Polypropylene is also more resistant to staining than nylon.
• Heat: Nylon is a bit more resistant to heat, but if it gets hot enough to melt either, the wearer has other problems!
• Weight: Polypropylene is a lighter and less dense than nylon. In fact, polypropylene has the greatest weight to strength ratio of all synthetic fibers.
• Ultraviolet Light: Polypropylene will stiffen over time exposed to a great deal of ultraviolet light., but that's a great deal of UV light. In one experience I had, it took a 1/2" diameter rope seven years to degrade by UV exposed to full sun every day. That's a lot of UV since I'm a mile above sea level! Before failure, I could easily see splintering of the fibers as the polypropylene became more brittle.
• Cost: Polypropylene is just a bit cheaper than nylon, but not much.

Why Nylon everywhere? Why is so much nylon used in tactical accessories? Nylon comes in many colors, for one thing, polypropylene comes in only a few colors. Nylon is much easier to stitch on machines, and usually the fibers are much smaller. Nylon can be softer, and with more give between fibers also eases stitching, so is less labor intensive, and cheaper for the manufacturer. Polypropylene is pretty hard on the machines when stitching and fabricating. I've read here on the internet that nylon is harsher and more abrasive than polypropylene, but that is an error. In my own experience the opposite is true. I suppose it also depends on the size of the fibers and how the strap is manufactured.

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Stitching

I use a heavy duty nylon upholstery thread (its high strength is important here). This is very tough stuff. I use a triple zigzag stitch or a straight locking stitch, for ultimate permanence, strength of bond, and stiffening. You won't find this stitch in any factory accessory, as factory machines only make one stitch, usually a single inline stitch. I have a special machine just for this, and it's quite sophisticated. The triple zigzag is nearly impossible to remove; it takes a half hour of picking with a razor under an Optivisor to correct a mistake an inch long! These stitches won't run, and won't come out. I do multiple rows, at least three on most unions, full width webbing bonds. The bonds are as permanent as the webbing, which should support a man's body weight.

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Other Parts/Components

Here are some other parts or components with details about their materials.

• Buckles: The buckles are usually ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene), but I can make them in mil-spec metals if needed.
• Bungees/Shock Cord/Occy Cord: The bungees are wide and flat elastic cords, used to prevent the knife handle from flopping around. They are secured with nickel plated steel snaps, but do not have to be unsnapped to be removed, just stretched. I made these accessories so that this component can be easily removed and/or replaced.
• Velcro: Where used, I opt for industrial strength Velcro, and I don't use any where it might make noise in quiet operations. The Velcro is not imperative to maintaining the integrity of the accessory, only as additional insurance on securing it and some add-ons. So you won't have to hear that tearing sound unless you're changing the accessory out, not simply pulling your knife. The Velcro is adhesively mounted, and then stitched with nylon upholstery thread.
• Snaps: I use two different types of snaps in these smaller components: nickel plated steel or 304 stainless steel. The snaps are not integral to the overall mechanical strength of the accessory, but are only for the smaller components (like the anti-flop shock cord). The nickel plated steel snaps inhibit corrosion, and the stainless steel snaps offer the highest strength and ultimate in corrosion resistance.

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Devices

My tactical, combat, and professional locking knife sheaths really are the best in the world; I've seen none better anywhere. There is only one way to make them better, and that is to offer more wear options and accessories as part of my commitment to service in this field. After discussing the needs with my military clients, there were several accessories they requested that they would like to have as useful, and even necessary adjuncts to their knife/sheath system. They did not want to try to find suitable aftermarket items; since there are so many poor knife sheaths out there, the chances of them finding anything commensurate and as durable as my sheaths were non-existent. Though some of the accessories made for custom firearm carry may be useful, they are not dedicated or designed for knife wear and use, so fit, arrangement, and usefulness is limited.

I have continued to add new options and accessories and will add new ones as they evolve. This tradecraft is never static, nor should it be. It is my honor to offer these items to my clients for their tactical, combat, professional, service, or survival needs.

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The Basic Tactical/Combat Knife Sheath Belt Loop Extender

Purpose: though my locking knife sheaths usually offer a variety of wear options, sometimes the knife user wants a more traditional, lower orientation of the knife at the waist, with the handle in a lower position. This accessory allows the knife sheath to be worn with the knife handle approximately even with the center of the belt line, much lower than with the standard aluminum belt loop mounts. The length of the extender can be set on an individual basis, but are not adjustable as the length is permanently stitched into the accessory. The extender is custom created for each knife, and because of the differences in each knife sheath, they are usually not interchangeable with other sheaths, even my own. It is a custom piece. Below are some pictures of how the basic extender is attached to the tactical combat knife sheath.

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Wearing the Locking Sheath Belt Loop Extender

The photo set below illustrates how my locking sheath belt loop extenders are worn and used.

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The Ultimate Tactical/Combat/Survival Knife Sheath Belt Loop Extender

The ultimate tactical, combat, and survival knife sheath belt loop extender is designed and functions like the basic belt loop extender above, but with some important added features and devices. The extender is mounted by replacing the aluminum die-formed belt loops with heavy, counter-bored 304 stainless steel bars and 18-8 stainless steel machine screws. This gives the accessory more room for the Firesteel/Magnesium block fitting at the industrial strength Velcro fold-over pads. Additionally, there is a special dedicated pocket at the extender's bottom to secure a DMT Mini-Sharp diamond abrasive hone. These accessories are described in the sections below. Here's how the ultimate is mounted:

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History of this Device

When I started adding the Maglite Solitaire® to the Ultimate Belt Loop Extender, it satisfied a need for a lightweight, compact, and handy emergency lamp that would be there for occasional illumination needs. Then, several clients asked if it would be possible to create a key lamp accessory, a holder for a main lamp that would be up to the needs of daily tactical, rescue, or combat use. I realized that this was a critical need for a variety of reasons. Typically, a tactical flashlight (or torch for you Brits) seems to occupy five spaces on the professional.

Problems, Issues With Tactical Flashlights

1. The traditional location is on the belt. The belt flashlight holder is usually made of nylon, perhaps with a Velcro®-secured flap, and has a belt loop. Better or tougher units have a molded plastic frame, and may have a rubber or neoprene security retention method that holds the lamp in its place. The advantage of this system is that it can accommodate a variety of lamps, and that it can be mounted anywhere there is a belt or strap that will accommodate the holder. The disadvantages are that, if the holder is a nylon stitched bag, it has extremely low durability, the nylon can rip, tear, snag, and burn, and the stitching will ultimately fail. Nylon absorbs water and holds it, so it can rot, and the Velcro (hook and loop fastener) will eventually lose its ability to grip. The flashlight in this type of holder is secured with the flap, and if the flap opens, and the holder is in any position but vertical (and flap up) the flashlight will be lost. Some of these holders use tension to hold the lamp, and have pivot options (like cell phone holders) to allow some limited aiming potential, but they are weak and nondurable, and the lamp can fall out. Sometimes, the flashlight holder (or pouch) is made of leather, which is more physically durable in some ways, but it, too, has its limitations. Leather must remain dry at all times, or it will expand, lose its form, rot, or at the very least, corrode the body of the flashlight and the dot snap that is typically used to secure the leather flap. A more moisture-resistant flashlight holder is made of plastic, and uses a typical "Mod-U-Lock" clip or "Tec-clip" type assembly that is common on many law enforcement accessories. The problem with these are that they are cheap plastic, and the best one uses a rubber strap to hold the flashlight. None of these holders are made for any durability, and they do not allow the wearer to adjust, aim, or use any feature of the holder to utilize the light while it is in the holder. The lamp must be removed, and held with the hand, costing the use of that hand in what is usually a critical situation.
2. Head-mounted flashlight holders can be very helpful to free up the hands, and I've used these myself, but they, too, are limited in scope. First, they are made to be lightweight and are somewhat limited in their illumination potential, usually only a couple dozen lumens. If you've got to wear the batteries and frame of the lamp on your brow, a hefty and durable light and holder is going to weigh more. They are secured with nylon elastic webbing, which is uncomfortable and non-durable and will move when it becomes wet with sweat, which will happen. Vigorous head motion, typical in tactical situations, will cause them to fall off, as they are only held in place with the tension of elastic banding around the forehead. Within a year or so of use, the elastic straps will start losing their elasticity. They have to be adjusted, accommodated, and tolerated and (most importantly) no other headgear can be worn. No helmet, no hat, no protective gear, headpiece, or accessory can be worn with them as the effectiveness of those critical safety components will be lost when worn over the head-mounted flashlight. While there are some worthwhile head-lamps that have modern LED technology with fair illumination now, none of them have serious programmable features, and the mounting of the device itself can limit its use. The light can be adjusted and aimed once (which takes two hands: one to hold the bands, one to move the lamp), and then the illumination beam follows the head around in whatever direction the head is facing. This can be both helpful and bothersome. It is great to illuminate what you look directly at, but that means that the direction of your head must be strictly controlled while wearing this. The person who wears and uses the head-lamp will often have to twist and move his head in unusual ways to accommodate his field of view and illumination. This doesn't help those around him who can be distracted by the head movement and motion of the beam. Also, any direction the wearer glances will be awash with light, even if the wearer does not want this (giving away a position). Headlamps have their place, but they have limitations.
3. Clip mounted flashlights seem to offer a variety of mounting options and positions. These are flashlights that have a clip mounted on the barrel or butt of the lamp. The clip is a spring clip of limited durability. Being plastic, this is a weak affair, and can easily bend or break. The springs themselves are usually torsion springs mounted in the clip and are typically made of carbon steel, which can corrode and rust, even if nickel plated. This type of lamp is limited in scope and size because a spring clip can not support any substantial weight, and the whole assembly is prone to failure and loss. Simply put, if it is easy and fast to clip on, it is easy and fast to fall off.
4. On the firearm, a lamp has a dedicated and essential purpose. These lamps and holders are made for just one purpose, illuminating the field of view of a target. What if you need illumination and you do not want to aim your weapon to get it? If you need illumination, and only your weapon offers this, it becomes a very heavy, bulky, dangerous and ineffective flashlight holder. The weapon-mounted lamp is not a programmable, versatile unit with other features and modes of operation.
5. Obviously, the hand can offer the widest variety of flashlight positions, but what if you need your hand for something else? What if you are carrying something, moving, climbing, or hiking or working on something that requires both hands like a victim, rescue, shelter building, or repair? What if you need your hands for combat?

These are the reasons I created the sheath-mounted HULA.

Solution: The HULA

The HULA (Holder, Universal, Lamp, Articulating) was designed to mount on my tactical, combat, rescue, and survival knife sheaths, to be a main key lamp accessory, with an articulating wide adjustment, lockable aiming, quick and reliable removal, and versatile wear and location options, while being highly corrosion-resistant and extremely strong. Here are the features and the reasons I make them this way:

• Materials: Just like my super-tough and professionally durable knife sheaths, the HULA had to be made of absolutely the best materials for the job. For the flashlight holding frame and bed, I chose 5052H32 corrosion resistant, high strength aluminum alloy. This alloy is the same one I use in my sheath welt-frames, because it is resistant to salt water, corrosives, and exposures, and is very strong, while being light weight. For the mechanical ball-joint, cinch lock socket, and mounting components which mechanically secure it to the sheath, I chose 304 high chromium, high nickel austenitic stainless steel, a corrosion-proof alloy used in stainless steel nuts, bolts, and fasteners. Even the screws are stainless steel, so nothing in this unit will fail due to corrosion. These materials are also very strong and durable, and this is why you will find nothing like this holder on the market anywhere.
• Finish: The finish on the HULA is simple: bead-blasted, flat, and non-glare. This is the easiest finish to care for in the tactical range of equipment, essentially zero-care, rinse and dry, without any bright areas that will telegraph your position.
• Flashlight holding frame: The aluminum alloy frame has two sockets. One is mounted to the bed of the frame, and the other engages a t-slot lock at the end of the bed. The flashlight is dropped into the mounted socket, and the free socket is placed over the butt of the flashlight. The t-slot engages the free socket and locks it to the frame. The free socket is held in place by the tension of a double length of 3/16" round shock cord, which is easily adjustable and replaceable if it ever wears out. The design is such that the shock cord sits against the bed and is not hanging out or protruding, so it does not snag on objects. The sockets are milled to fit the 1 inch diameter Maglite XL® lamps, and the ends are milled to allow the flashlight beam to exit the socket on one end, and access to the switch on the other end. All of the critical areas of the flashlight holding frame are welded in a high purity weld process, and gusseted and reinforced for strength and durability.
• Ball joint and mount: The articulating ball joint mechanism is very old, dating back thousands of years, and there is a reason for this. Just like in your shoulder or hip, the ball joint allows an immense amount of movement and direction, while offering very fine adjustment. I make these from 304 stainless steel for high strength and zero-care. The ball joint can be locked in place with the tension applied on the cinch (or clamp) screw that is operated by hand. Finger pressure applied to the swivel tab locks or unlocks the ball joint, allowing the joint to articulate. A neat feature of this is after the break-in period, the ball joint has a "sweet spot" of tension where you can easily adjust or aim the lamp holder and it stays in that position without tightening or loosening the cinch screw. The cinch screw is retained and can not fall out, even if loosened. The ball joint ball is welded to a machined tab that secures it to the bed of the flashlight holding frame with locked stainless steel machine screws, and the cinch tabs are welded to the sheath mounting frame that is then bolted to the knife sheath welt frame with stainless steel machine screws. The universal hole pattern I create on these mounting frames allow numerous positions of attachment on the sheath body, and reversibility, as it can mount on either side of the sheath. It is not uncommon to have ten different mounting positions on my large tactical knife sheaths.
• How it works: The HULA is bolted securely to the sheath welt frame, usually on the outside face of the sheath. If the sheath is locking and can be mounted in any position, even upside down, this works great with the HULA. The flashlight in the HULA can be turned on with the finger or thumb, and the light shines out the end of the socket. The HULA can then be aimed in any direction it will accommodate, which is a huge variety, indeed. Not only can the light illuminate what is in front of the wearer, but it can be made to illuminate what is on the ground in front of him, what is to the side, and even behind the wearer, which can be critical in buddy situations, rescues, or disaster response. To remove the flashlight, pull up on the free socket, unlocking the t-slot lock and the flashlight can be removed. The free socket can be re-engaged in the t-slot lock to secure it. The lamp is reinserted in the HULA in reverse fashion. The large t-slot lock can easily be confirmed by touch, even in the dark, so once the lamp is stowed and locked the wearer can rest assured knowing it is secured. This is an extremely versatile accessory, professionally made, simply the best made in the world.
• Rattle and Movement: Only in the tactical combat realm of equipment is this usually a concern. I've designed the HULA to snug the flashlight tightly, and the continuous tension of the shock cord assures that the lamp does not rattle around in the HULA. With the flashlight out of the HULA and the free socket replaced on the t-slot, the tension of the shock cord stops that component from rattling as well. The cinch screw pivot tab is also snug and does not rattle. To control movement of the lamp, the cinch screw does its job well, and with a snug twist, the ball joint can lock solidly in position. If continuous re-aiming is desired, a light pressure of the cinch screw will help the user find the sweet spot, where the HULA can be aimed with one hand, and stays where you aim it.
• Care and Maintenance: No regular care is required in the HULA other than rinsing off mud, oil, or debris. No lubrication is necessary, in fact, lubrication of the ball joint will impair its ability to lock. The only part of the HULA that can change over time is the shock cord. Keep an eye out for fraying, and if the shock cord loosens, just replace it. It is a commonly found item (3/16" diameter shock cord, occy cord, or bungee cord), and it is replaced with two simple overhand knots. That's it!

Solution: Wearing and operating the HULA

In the photo set below, you can see just how this critical accessory is used with my locking knife sheaths in a typical wear location arrangement. The HULA is quite versatile when worn on the hip, but please remember that the HULA is even more versatile when worn on a tactical vest, PALS vest on body armor, or on any gear that can accommodate the locking tactical knife sheath. The photo annotations are clear and self-explanatory.

While the angle of the frame of the HULA allows it to extend outward from the sheath to clear the sheath and body for aiming the lamp, it also allows the ball joint to position the HULA flashlight holder behind the sheath. In essence, in the first photos below, you can see how the holder is folded back to actually be behind the sheath. Worn in this position,  the HULA flashlight holder is out of the way, behind the sheath, and thus does not protrude greatly. This reduces the possibility of snagging the HULA or sheath on debris, brush, or obstacles.

Solution: The Flashlight

The next thing I had to do was find a lamp that was up to the task. I went back to Maglite®, the USA company that is the founding venture of all fine tactical lights. Their line of compact programmable multi-mode XL lamps was just the ticket. These flashlights have intense, yet dimmable beams created with LED technology that is quite impressive. They have worthwhile functions and controls that are useful and necessary in tactical and emergency situations.

• On-off control. Simple enough: a push button on the butt of the lamp clicks it on or off. Because the button is not on the side of the barrel, it can be more protected, more easily located, even if the flashlight rotates around in the holder. A barrel-mounted button is harder to locate in the dark and can accidentally be turned on (or off!).
• Programmable dimming. A very important feature that should be on every tactical lamp. The illumination intensity is set by motion control. The lamp is held horizontally, the pushbutton switch depressed, and the wrist rotated (the barrel rolled) and the lamp dims. The programming allows the lamp to remain at this illumination level even if turned off and on again. In muted or subdued (or clandestine) situations, the lamp can be set for very low illumination, thus eliminating the possibility of light beam flashing, startling, or unwanted detection. Having the lamp programmed for dim use also extends the battery life to hundreds of hours.
• Lock-out. This is a critical and very good feature on a tactical flashlight. The lamp can be (with the use of the motion-control programming function) locked out, prevented from accidentally turning on. This can be a life saver in tactical combat situation and also in rescue or survival situations where you absolutely do not want the lamp turning on, even by accident, fall, or unintended contact with the switch. The lockout is engaged and released in clever, simple and well-considered motion that will not accidentally happen.
• Strobe. What could be more effective in signaling your location in an emergency or when you need to get attention than a strobe? This great feature also allows the strobe to set to the programmed illumination level (dim to bright and anywhere in-between) and the motion control programming allows the user to control the rate of the strobe which varies from about 1 flash per second to about 20 flashes per second. This lamp can get attention when others can't.
• Night-light (task illumination). This feature is also motion activated. When this function is selected, the lamp stays at the programmed illumination level when the lamp remains in motion. Set the lamp down (or become still), and in two seconds it dims to the lowest level of illumination, just right for night activity. This way, it conserves battery power and does not blaze away when it is not being moved and used. Around camp, this is a great feature.
• Motion activate (signal). This function allows the lamp to be used as a user-controlled signaling device. The lamp is off when it is held still, but a slight motion of the wrist turns it on. So the lamp can be used in complex signaling methods or to count off flashes in communicating not only at night, but in the daytime.
• SOS. If everything goes to hell, and you need to signal, the SOS function spells out the Morse code signal for you at the illumination level you set, continually, until you turn it off or the battery runs dry.

The physical size and construction of these Maglites are well-thought out. They have anodized aluminum barrels, and O-ring seals to keep moisture out. They have 1 meter fall impact resistance, and the brightest one illuminates with 172 lumens at 138 meter distance. They have somewhat limited flood to spot focusing, but with their intensity, this is effective. There are some comparisons that will help the user decide on which one to select, as they are included with the HULA.

FL1 ANSI/NEMA Standards

What these standards mean:

• Candela (Peak Beam Intensity): The maximum light intensity that does not vary with distance; the brightest part of the central beam of light. You can see the XL200 has more beam intensity than then the XL100, but at the cost of maximum beam battery life.
• Lumens (Light Output): Total projected light output (measured in a sphere, encompassing all light output). The XL200 has twice the total light output, but at the cost of the maximum beam battery life, which is cut in half in high power.
• Beam Distance (Throw): The distance the light will project to .25 lux. .25 lux is approximately the same intensity of the light emitted from a full moon on a clear night in an open field (yes, that's the ANSI/NEMA standard!) This is similar for both lamps, which indicates to me that the XL200 has a wider field of illumination than the XL100.
• Run Time (Battery Life): The duration of time from 30 seconds after the light is turned on with fully charged batteries until the light output drops to 10% of the initial value. These are critical to the user's choice of lamp. You can see that the long-life flashlight here is the XL100, while the XL200 has half the life at full brightness. But if the flashlight is used at low power (dim setting), the XL200 actually has more life.
• Impact Resistance (Drop Height): The drop height that the flashlight will endure when dropped onto a solid (concrete) surface without damage to operation, and no cracks or breaks. Both are rated at the standard 1 meter drop.
• Enclosure Protection (Water Resistance): Resistance to splashing water. Water splashed from any direction shall have no harmful effects. Both lamps are water resistant.

Other factors (Operational Modes)

There are other factors that must be considered in the choice of lamp, mainly the operational modes of these two lamps. They both have the same programs (modes of operation) including:

1. Normal (ON-OFF)
2. Dimming Control
3. Strobe
4. NITE LITE(TM)
5. Signal
6. SOS
7. Lockout

However, the switch operation is different.

The XL100 mode choice depends on the horizontal position of the flashlight body. To select, a small nib of rubber on the switch must be located by sight or feel, and the barrel rotated around its axis in different directions (like the face of a clock) for different modes. This may be troublesome to learn, but the advantage is that it only requires one click of the switch.

The XL200 mode choice is determined by rapid clicking of the switch. This has the advantage of operating any mode when the flashlight is in any position, but the drawback to this is that the rhythm of the clicking must be controlled. Click too fast and it does not recognize the signal, and click too slow and the lamp simply turns on and off. Also, in quiet or subdued activity situations, lots of clicking may telegraph a position.

No matter the choice, both of these are great lamps, and worthy of the sturdy and sophisticated HULA knife sheath accessory. My commitment is to offer the very finest accessories to work with the finest knives, sheaths, and professionals who depend on them to be the very best. The finest, most durable accessories are not cheap; it is not my goal to make the economical, but only the very best.

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Thigh Belt for Long Knives

Thigh Belt for Long Knives

For very long knife blades, I offer a reasonable, practical, and worthwhile solution for realistic wear. The problem with most of the long knife sheaths for this type of knife is that when the sheath is long, the bottom (tip) of the sheath can flop around. The solution to this is to anchor the sheath to the thigh. Other makers and suppliers of this type of sheath are woefully inadequate, using lace, cord, or other straps to accomplish this critical job. That is simply not good enough, and here are the reasons why:

Problems with long knife sheath mounts

• Lace is weak, thin, and short-lived. Leather is susceptible to rot, decay, moisture penetration.
• Lace (particularly leather) can dry out, shrink, and crack in desert or dry locations.
• Lace or cord will become soiled and most of it is not able to be cleaned. Leather will stain and stiffen, cord will stain and decay inside, since it can not breathe and quickly dry. Nylon (read Para cord) actually absorbs and holds water and everything in it, like salts, dirt, spores, fungus, mold, and chemicals!
• Lace or cord will dig into the thigh and leg; it will chafe and burn.
• Lace or cord has to be constantly adjusted to changes in pant thickness, motion, activity and environment.
• Lace or cord attachment is only as strong as the lace or cord, specifically at the attachment point. If this is an eyelet, the eyelet is weak, thin, and seldom corrosion resistant. Know of any sheath that has stainless steel eyelets? No.
• The attachment method is only as strong as the sheath body and welts. A thin sheath here could allow tugging by the lace or cord, causing the knife to eventually cut through the sheath. Your leg is not where you want the point of a razor sharp knife (or even a dull knife) to ride!
• Lace or cord can slip around the attachment point, and that is where it will eventually rub in half.
• Tying and retying lace or cord is a time consuming, hassle, as adjustment is frequent. The tie is typically on the inside of the leg, where chafing and rubbing of the bulky knot will bother both legs!
• The lace or cord always has extra length (the tail) that extends past the knot. This tail can become trapped, snagged by objects, brush and obstacles, and can trip the wearer.
• Lace or cord has the potential to choke the leg like a garrote when snagged, twisted, or trapped. This can cut off circulation and can actually cut the leg open.
• Lace or cord can break, because it is narrow and weak.
• Lace or cord is not quickly or easily removed in an emergency. If the knot happens to bind (as all knots eventually do) it may take quite a while to pick loose and remove. If you have wet, muddy, or soiled hands or (God forbid) gloves, forget untying quickly. I suppose the sharp knife will come in handy here!
• Velcro seems like a workable choice, but Velcro can easily come unhooked by brush, obstacles, and objects. Eventually, if exposed to dirt and debris, the Velcro hook and loop fastener can become soiled and will quit hooking. Add to that the issue of noise. Velcro is very loud, the ripping and tearing when unhooking can give away your position, a critical error in tactical combat use.

Solutions

How would the best leg and thigh strap work on a long-bladed knife sheath?

• The sheath is not secured with a thin strap or lace, but with a wide belt. The belt is made of polypropylene, which is extremely long-lived and completely resistant to moisture, decay, or rot. All of the fittings are also impervious to moisture, rot, and decay.
• The belt material is polypropylene, which does not absorb water, and can breathe and dry out. It is impervious to most chemicals, salts, and exposures in a wide variety of locations. It is not affected by dryness or marine (salt spray) exposures. The fittings are also polypropylene and are also impervious to exposures.
• The polypropylene webbing can be washed, dried, and regularly cleaned if needed.
• The 2" wide belt prevents point contact chafing and burning, and distributes the forces over a wide area, minimizing chafing and burning.
• The thigh belt has a tough, polypropylene adjustment buckle that doesn't slip or change when you don't want it to. Once it's set for the pants you're wearing, it stays at that adjustment no matter how many times you don and doff (put on and take off) the knife.
• My thigh belt has a strong, permanent mounting with all corrosion resistant, heavy bearing mounts. It is all stainless steel, specifically 304 high nickel, high chromium stainless steel straps, Chicago screws (sex bolts) and machine screws. They are much stronger than carbon steel, they are completely corrosion resistant, and waterproof, and require no care, ever. They are easily removable, but will not come off, loosen, or fall off.
• The mountings are secured through the 5052H32 high strength, corrosion resistant aluminum alloy welt frame and through both layers of double-thickness kydex thermoformed plastic sheath sides. The sheath is the strongest made in the world for tactical combat and professional use, and has earned a well-deserved reputation. The sheath will protect the wearer.
• Since the mounting of the thigh belt is with machine screws and straps of stainless steel, it does not move or slide. There is no rubbing against mounts, no weak eyelets, no narrow contact points for wear or failure.
• Doffing should be easy! Attaching and releasing of my thigh belts is done with polypropylene buckles. It is quick, easy, and the belt length does not change unless you want it to. You can hike, remove the rig during a rest, and remount assured the belt is in the same position, location, and length as when you took it off.
• There is a buckle strap slide made of super tough polypropylene that retains the loose end of the belt and keeps the end of the extra belt length clean, tidy, neat, and out of the way.
• The wide belt can not cut through pants or the leg. Pressure or force from the sheath movement is distributed over a wide, comfortable area.
• The thigh belt will not break; it will support 1400 pounds of pressure; that's the weight of about six men.
• In an emergency, a quick squeeze of the buckle will release the entire thigh belt. It's markedly faster than untying and can be done with wet, muddy, or soiled hands, even with gloves on!
• Because the buckle takes two fingers to squeeze, and because it is located at the front of the leg, brush or obstacles can not accidentally open the buckle or release the thigh belt. It is extremely secure.

To learn more, please look at the group of thumbnail photos of my thigh belt and wear demonstration below.

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The Sternum Harness

The locking knife sheath sternum harness was designed and made to answer a need some tactical clients have to wear the knife with the handle down, located across the sternum. This is not quite as easy as one would think, because there is no sash, frame, webbing, or arrangement made commonly today that will allow this very simple wear. So I designed and make these useful and simple accessories for my locking sheaths. Obviously, these would not work on any sheath that does not positively lock the knife into the sheath.

This is not some simple little necklace that allows a neck knife to be located in the neighborhood of the clavicles. This is a serious, stout, and extremely strong webbing that can support the weight of 5 men. It's woven polypropylene, with thick ABS plastic fittings. Because there is no give or stretching and no break-away components to this harness; it is waterproof, mildew and rot resistant, lightweight, and extremely durable. Please note the following warning and disclaimer:

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Add-ons for the Tactical/Combat Knife Sheath Accessories

There are some additional accessories and add-ons that I have included to expand the usefulness, reliability, and function of these critical sheath accessories. This is all part of my commitment to service in this tradecraft, industry and art, and I'm sure I'll add more as time and interest dictates. It is my goal to make the best knife possible for my client's individual needs and uses.

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The Magnesium/Firesteel Igniter

In the annotated photograph below, you can see the Firesteel/Magnesium block fire starter that is part of my ultimate locking knife sheath belt loop extender. This critical item is used to start fires in wilderness and survival situations. I researched plenty of components, methods, and systems for fire starting, taking many facts into account, as well as interviewing clients in the survival, tactical, and combat field about these systems. Here is some of the information that is important to understand when relating to the science of survival and fire starting.

• No one will disagree that a fire can be critical in an emergency survival situation.
• There are numerous ways to start fires, not all are reasonable.
• Matches must be kept absolutely dry; even water resistant and wind resistant matches are fragile and limited in number; many must have dry and suitable striking surfaces.
• Pressurized gas lighters must be kept full, and they have mechanisms that can fail including tiny flints. They have potential for explosion, may leak, and may not work at high altitudes.
• Liquid fuel lighters must be kept full, they have mechanisms that can fail including tiny flints and wicks, and are fragile and must be wind resistant and water resistant as well as sealed from the elements. The fuel can dry out faster in hot, dry climates and is not always available.
• Matches, pressurized gas lighters, and liquid fuel lighters all have limited fuel potential and can run out. The same can be said for tinder bundles, tabs, devices, and other quick fire starting gizmos.

When you examine these bulleted points, it's pretty clear. The ultimate fire starter would be one with unlimited igniting potential, one that could produce a spark and ignition no matter how wet the environment is. If dry tinder can be found, the lighting system should be reliable enough to ignite it. Currently, the simplest and most reliable combination is the Firesteel/Magnesium block.

The block works very simply with the knife. The cutting edge of the knife is used to shave or scrape off slivers and bits of magnesium metal. Magnesium is highly flammable in thin shavings and burns white-hot. In a block form, it is safe and benign. Because this metal is soft, it doesn't take long to work up a small pile of shavings. On top of this pile, tinder is laid. The block has mounted in one side a three-inch long striker of extremely high carbon steel commonly called a flint. This is not really flint, flint is a stone that is formed by prehistoric ocean goo that has been petrified and replaced by quartz (that's the lapidary in me writing). Due to the alloy content of this special "Firesteel" a simple stroke along it with a hard piece of metal produces a tiny shower of sparks. The block with fire steel is placed closely to the shaving pile, and the magnesium is ignited, igniting the tinder, which can be teased into a fire.

These devices are extremely simple; there are no moving parts, no mechanisms, and they withstand total immersion and extreme environments. They are fairly common and well known, manufactured by many companies, and work beautifully with one simple tool that everyone should have, their knife.

There are some concerns that I try to address in my application of these fire starters to the accessory package.

• The first concern is one of safety. Since the fire steel can cause ignition when contacting any hard object, including metals, rock, and even glass, to mount one safely required that the area of the striker (or flint for you old timers) needed some type of guard. While I would never recommend carrying these items in an explosive, flammable, or hazardous environment, it is still necessary to have the striker protected and guarded. The striker is also somewhat brittle, and can be shattered in a hard impact.
• Another issue was one of concentration of the sparks; the spark area needs to be intense enough to ignite the magnesium. Any blade or object carelessly dragged across the fire steel would produce sparks in many directions.
• A third issue is one of ease of use, accessibility, and corrosion resistance. The device needed to be carried in a variety of positions, relocated with ease, and have a substantially strong and durable fixture that would withstand corrosion. Typically, these blocks have a single bored hole in the magnesium and a little break-away chain that would ensure you lose the device the first time you bumped into an obstacle.

To answer these concerns, I designed a simple yet effective hardware adapter for these blocks. It consists of all 304 stainless steel (18-8 high nickel, high chromium austenitic stainless steel) components for absolute corrosion resistance, that are machined and bolted to the magnesium block and fixed in position. Though the round turned and threaded rod will allow the device to move on the sheath belt loop extender, the cage always protects the flint (striker or fire steel) from being hit by nearly every object the wearer may contact. The cage formed by the fitting guides the knife blade as it scrapes the striker, and because the frame is solid and the strike consistent, the sparks are concentrated at the stainless steel lower bracket. So the user knows just where his magnesium and tinder pile should be located. Another helpful advantage is that the blade tip only can slip between the guide rod and the fire steel, so greater control and safety is possible. In fact, the swage is the part that works best in this guided cage arrangement, which protects the blade cutting edge, and the guy who is using it. Pretty neat!

Please examine the annotated photograph below to understand how this works.

The use of this type of fire starter assumes that the survivalist who carries it will be able to find his own tinder, and I don't recommend carrying tinder packs, oiled or waxed cotton, lint wads, or any other troublesome and messy adjuncts to starting a fire. If you can't fine or create tinder in the field, you probably won't have the fuel to build any fire or keep it going!

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The Diamond Pad Sharpener

When I researched the many issues that might be pertinent to the survivalist, combatant, soldier, professional, or serious knife user, there was one that kept popping up. Every knife eventually dulls. Though in times past anyone with moderate skill might be able to pull of an edge dressing on a convenient rock with a piece of carbon steel, new knives, thin geometries, and high alloy content blades would mean that although a blade could hold an edge much longer than the knives of the past, sharpening could be a daunting experience, and out of the realm of possibility of the knife user, particularly in the field.

Thankfully, we have an answer to the toughest, hardest, and most wear resistant blade sharpening problems. It is the diamond. Nothing is as hard as diamond, and diamond abrasives can be plated along with nickel to a high nickel content substrate forming nickel-bedded diamond abrasives. I use this type of abrasive in my shop to grind and polish gemstone, metals, and yes, even to sharpen knife blades. A leading company provides a neat, compact and effective small pad of diamond abrasives fused to a tough plastic folding body that can be carried without even noticing it's there. Diamond Machining Technology in Marlborough, MA makes many types of diamond abrasive products, including the Mini-Sharp right here in the United States of America. They make several grades of abrasives, and I've included these handy sharpeners in a custom sewn pocket on the back of the ultimate sheath belt loop extender made just for the Mini-sharp. Don't let the small size of this device fool you. It can sharpen the hardest and most wear resistant tool steel blades there are, including CPMS90V, D2, and solid carbide. These products (with the application of a drop of water or spit) will cut, and cut, and cut.

With these sharpeners I include DMT's instructions. They follow the circular motion technique of sharpening, keeping the angle at about 20 degrees. This will hone up your knife in the field. By the way, the sewn pocket at the back of the extender is just the right length and size to hold the Mini-Sharp tightly. You remove it with a thumbnail. And it can't come out unless the sheath is removed from your body and the industrial strength Velcro straps are opened. So you can be sure your diamonds are always where they need to be, at the ready.

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The Flashlight

In about mid-2011, with input from some of my military and tactical knife clients, I added a small flashlight to the Ultimate Tactical Knife Sheath Belt Loop Extender. I did some detailed research and weighed all the options. I opted for a specially fitted Maglite® Solitaire®. These are the reasons for this choice:

• Approach: The reasons for a small lamp on the package are numerous, but experience is the best reference. When have you been out in the middle of the day, and needed to peek into a downed log, a small cave, a ruin, well, or dark hole? Have you been caught far away from camp without a lamp and the daylight is fading fast? Have you needed just enough light to see your way over rocks and rough terrain, but not a blinding flood lamp that can alert others and mark you as a target? Maybe you just needed to see your way around an obstacle, through some brush, or needed to read a map or compass. Maybe you needed to catch someone's attention, see your way to reload or re-chamber a misfire, or clean and service your critical outdoor equipment in the middle of an excursion. Or maybe you want a small spotlight that can illuminate nearby eyes that may be looking back at you. This is the philosophy of this small light. It's not your main camp beacon, it's simply a lightweight, useful adjunct that can get you through difficulties. It can also act as a backup when your main light fails!
• Size and Weight: Though there are many types of flashlights out there, and some very well made choices, size and weight is a serious concern. The Solitaire is called a Keychain/Backpack light, but it's tough and up to the job. I didn't want to add a heavy or bulky main beacon to the package, but an accessory that was light and small, yet durably built. Including the special fittings, this light accessory weighs about one ounce. It is about 3.25" long, and less than one half of an inch in diameter. On a knife sheath rig that may weigh several pounds (for a large tactical knife size), this is hardly noticeable.
• Simplicity and Durability: This one is key. I wanted a light that was tough, made of durable materials, and one that has a proven reputation of reliability. Maglite makes their flashlights from machined aluminum, with O-ring seals and nickel plated conductors. There are no miniature switches in the Solitaire, and simply twisting the lens cap focuses the beam from spot to flood, just like the big Maglites. They include a spare bulb in the base, and the simple fluted knurling on the anodized black surface is easy to grip when the lamp is wet or muddy.
• Non-glare: This one is more for the combat professional. The Maglite Solitaire is anodized a deep black, with a tough passive oxide anodized coating. It will not catch attention when you don't want it. The added security I provide on this lamp is satin-finished stainless steel, also non-glare, and black shock cord retention.
• Replaceable: Since a small accessory like this might become orphaned, it is easily replaceable, with readily available components and parts.
• American Made: The Maglite is made in the United States of America by a company dedicated to American manufacturing goals and concepts. Just like the Diamond Pad Sharpener from DMT, these companies have won my support with their great products. As a businessman, I believe that men and women who make and manufacture in the U.S.A. will be the leaders of our commerce and future; after all, I'm an American maker also!
• I insisted on the highest corrosion resistance and security for the hardware that secures the small lamp to the package, yet knew that it was important to have a very fast and simple method to take the lamp from the rig and into the hand. I use the Solitaire's machined eye on the base to mount a custom made ring of tough .940" thick 304 stainless steel, the same stainless steel used in my bolsters, fittings, and on durable stainless nuts, bolts and fasteners. These rings are welded, and the free ring is welded to a pinch-type connector that is also 304 stainless steel. The pinch secures the ends of .180" bungee (bungie, shock cord, ockey or elastic) strap loop. The Solitaire is inserted in a stitched, dedicated loop built right into the front of the ultimate belt loop extender, so is very conveniently located at the front of the rig when worn in traditional placement.
• Use: To remove the lamp, simply pinch the lens end retaining ring with the thumb and forefinger, and pull it down, over the end of the lens. Then pull up on the base ring to slide the lamp out of the polypropylene webbing. To insert the lamp, push the lens end into the poly loop, and pull the lens ring over the lens. It's fast, easy, and remarkably simple and durable.
• Other features: A neat feature of this rig is that when you are hiking at night, and need just a little light to see your steps on the trail, this lamp, secured in the webbing and set at wide angle, will illuminate the trail for about three feet in front of you. Another feature is that with the same ring-shock cord arrangement, the lamp can be mounted on any strap, ring, tool, or even your finger for convenient use while freeing up the rest of your hand.
• Further refinements and upgrades: If clients request it, I can upgrade the rig to accommodate a larger LED type Maglite like the XL50, XL100, XL200 or others, just let me know! After all, this is custom!

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Variable Belt Loop Placement

Both my tension fit kydex, aluminum, and steel tactical sheaths and my locking kydex, aluminum, and stainless steel sheaths have always had reversible belt loops. These loops are made of die-formed 5052H32 high strength, corrosion resistant aluminum, and most of them are bead blasted and sealed with acrylic for zero care. These tough loops are also sometimes requested as clamping straps to tightly grip the belt, strap, or webbing that they will mount on. I've constructed them to be able to be mounted on either the typical front face of the sheath or the back, so the sheath can be worn on either side.

To increase the wear options, in about mid-2009, I started constructing them with variable placement. This means that in addition to mounting on either face of the sheath, the belt loops can be located in several positions along the sheath frame. This allows the sheath to be worn high, mid-line, or low on the belt or strap location. The amount and placement of these anchor points varies between knives and sheaths, as the sheath body dimensions vary. For instance, in many mid-sized tension fit sheaths, I can locate three loop positions, for a total of six wear options. Some of the shorter sheaths like the locking sheaths only allow two pairs of placement options. With the locking sheaths, this can be handy if the knife is to be worn in handle-down (upside down) position on tactical vests. The arrangement will allow the 1" PALS webbing on tactical gear to accommodate various sheath positions.

The only user necessity to move the belt loops are a flat-blade screwdriver and something to push the Chicago screws out of the welts. When you do relocate these belt loops, please be sure that the Chicago screws are good and tight!

Below is an illustration of various belt loop placements on my popular PJLT tactical and CSAR knife with a tension fit sheath.

More Coming?

I'm certain! Stay tuned and check back often.

Thanks for being here!

--Jay

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