Jay Fisher: World Class Knifemaker, Photographer, Writer

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"The Best Living Knifemaker" -- in the 2007 "Best of the West Sourcebook" by True West Publications

 

 


Letters, Emails, Comments

Note: Please do not use the quoted prices in the emails on this page as a current guide. Some of these emails are several years old, and the costs of materials, supplies, shipping, and knife making has increased. Use the quote form here for an accurate specific quote on a custom knife or email me here for answers and ideas!

The letters and submissions below have been edited for appropriate content, spelling, and punctuation. Email is often casual, and sometimes needs to be corrected for readability!

Thanks, Jay


 

Q: Jay, what is the best knife steel?
A: Oh, I get this one a lot. Someone wants a blade that will hold an edge forever, can shave hair off a mouse's tail, yet when it needs sharpening, a few light licks on the latest gimmick rock will transform it into a three pound razor. Sorry. Can't be. Knife steels are the most advanced they've ever been. High technology alloy tool steels are made the best they can be, metallurgy has reached it's pinnacle for our time. But there is no MAGIC STEEL. All steel uses, no matter the tool or application, must be carefully weighed for optimum performance. Fillet knives must be thin and springy, therefore cannot be extra hard, axes must be shock resistant and tough, therefore cannot be thin and brittle. A little common sense is required here. Use the best steel available for the application. And the application varies. So this is an unanswerable question. Try again.

Q: What's the longest wearing steel?
A: What are you cutting?
Q: Does it matter?
A: Yes, of course. Many materials are abrasive. Elk hair loaded with dirt (silicates and tiny rocks) is horribly abrasive. Some materials are acetic (fruits, blood, fats and fascia) and will etch the cutting edge away. Some plastics are amazingly abrasive.

Q: But I've seen tests where knives cut rope over and over. What's the deal?
A: Looks neat, huh? This merely tests the edge's ability to cut rope on a board. So if that's what you want, harden a piece of high cobalt, high tungsten exotic carbide to 85 rockwell on the C scale. If you can possibly get an edge on it, it will just about never wear out. But don't drop it! It will shatter like glass.  I'm being a bit facetious here, but look, a knife blade is usually used for a variety of operations. Cutting, scraping, slicing, picking, and light prying.

Q: WHAT? You said NEVER to pry with a knife!
A: You're in the advanced area of the web site, so let's get real here. Who hasn't lightly used the edge of a knife to dig, pull a tack out, lift a tough label. I said LIGHT.

Q: So I just want to know what is the best steel! Is that so hard to answer?
A: Sure it is. Do you want hardness with a thick edge? Will it see heavy use? Do you need it thin for a sharper edge angle? Do you need high corrosion and stain resistance?  Will you need to field sharpen it? Will it be used to flint-strike a fire? Will it be dropped? Do you need an aggressive tooth profile? Will it need an accurate spiked point for insertion? Do you need it easy to clean? Low reflectivity? Smooth profile? Shock profiled? Chop profiled? Will you clean it? Do you need to camo paint it? Is it a scalpel, a hammer, or a straight razor? Have you really considered just what, when, and how you'll use it? How much do you want to spend? Do you want a piece you can hand down to your grandchildren? Will it need to appreciate in value? Do you want to use it, then retire it on your mantle? Will it only gather dust on the inside of your credenza? Will you use it to castrate bulls, lop off rattlesnakes heads, dig in a Mesoamerican ruin? Will you cut tangled hawsers, clear the skin off a helo, rescue a Navy Seal from a wrecked APC? Will you keep the natives at bay when they tell you you can't point your weapon unless you are ready to shoot? Are you ready to get a real knife just for once in your life?
 

Now if you're thoroughly confused, perhaps you'd better start with the FAQ page here. And if   you're thinking about all those conversational details already, gather in some answered emails about knives on this page.

 


Does it follow that I reject all authority? Perish the thought. In the matter of boots, I defer to the authority of the boot-maker.

-- Mikhail Bakunin


 

Testimonial

Jay,
I looked over your website and read your biography and you are an inspiration that I understand.  Having gunsmithed in the past specializing in refinishing and sporterizing, I appreciate what you do.  Now that I discovered knife making about five years ago, I can't get enough. Your work is simply awesome.
 

regards, Phil Adams

 

 


 

What do people want? Collectors want something different, not the same old four inch drop point with a stag handle. They see the same linerlock heat-colored damascus folders with mastodon ivory handle scales. Yeah, I can make those, but why make everything everybody else does?

--Jay


Need general details? Jump to the FAQ Page here.

Top of page


 

Testimonial

Jay,

 The knife is absolutely beautiful, exactly what I was looking for.  The Tiger Eye gemstone handle looks great!. It feels very massive in hand but seems to balance nicely . I feel like I could chop thru bone with it. If it wasn't so large I would carry it all the time, lol . The sheath sets it off perfectly btw.  Beautiful job on the filing and etching , the leather work , all the little details. Thanks again !

 -- T.S.

 


 

Q: i would want a knife that would require the least amount of maintenance and i like the special sheath or holder where a person can release the knife with ease. and the blade. will it keep an edge? i have purchased many "good looking" knives that will not hold a blade and this is frustrating to me. i want a knife that will hold a blade if such a knife does exist. please school me on your knives as far as not rusting and holding a blade....thank you for your earlier reply. D.K.


A: 440C would be a good candidate for very little maintenance. It contains 17% Chromium and 1.25% carbon making it the most corrosion resistant tool and die steel made. It is suitable for dive knives in salt water. The only thing that "attacks" the steel is concentrated acid.
ATS-34 is the next best thing. Three percentage points of chromium have been replaced by molybdenum, making ATS-34 a high chrome-moly tool steel. This allows for increased toughness, and is used where a thin cross-sectional area is used. It is more expensive than 440C.
Factory knives are usually made from 440A, 440B or 420 series stainless steels. The reason factories use these inferior steels is that they can be die-pressed (stamped) from sheet stock. The steels I use are usually what the dies are made from. The edge holding capability of properly heat-treated modern knife steels is astounding. A factory knife will typically need sharpened three times to field dress an elk, a good custom knife will dress three elk without ever touching the edge.
Sometimes, I get requests for "super-steel," a material that will hold an edge forever, cut through rocks, and will support a 280 lb. man when shoved into a tree. There is no such thing, that's Hollywood. But it is true that we have the technology to make the finest steels in existence today.
Sheaths: Leather is good, serviceable and attractive. Leather sheaths should last a generation with care, but are not waterproof. Kydex and aluminum frame with a tension fit is the next best type, and should last three generations. My best sheath is Kydex, aluminum, with a stainless steel locking mechanism, consisting of 38 components, suitable for ocean salt water. This military grade sheath will add $150 to the base price of a knife.

Jay

 


 

Testimonial

By the way, the beauty and hand of my Gemini never cease to amaze me. To those to whom I've showed it, it seems that they can't stop handling it. Needless to say, they are very appreciative of the work of the piece. Truly a work of art.

J.H.A.

 


He who cannot dance puts the blame on the floor.

--Hindi Proverb


 

Hi Jay,

 Glad to hear the deposit made it! Our postal system here is far from efficient! I'm not too worried about how long you take. As I've said, this design has been in my head for a very long time. I can wait another year or two or whatever it takes. Thanks for taking the project on. The more I look at your website, the more I like some of your other designs. I can see myself possibly ordering again soon! Your gemstone handles are by far some of the most beautiful I've seen. I've yet to see any makers in Texas (or contiguous states, for that matter) at the shows produce handles such as these.

Have a good night, A. F.

Hi, A.

I started making gem handled knives back in the very early 1980s. Back then, I thought I'd discovered something new and novel, only to find out later that the ancient Persians did some beautiful jade handles and even inlaid them with gold pique work. The difference today is one of expediency. With modern abrasives, we can do in days what it took years for the ancients to achieve. Still, no one else is making as many gem handled knives as I do and have. Though you'll hear many reasons, it's really very simple. To cut, carve, sand, and polish gemstone takes a tremendous amount of time. You can't whip out a handle in an hour or two, and the equipment to work with stone (diamond abrasives and cutters) is expensive and takes some time and practice to learn. Like fine mirror finishing on a blade, a lot of makers aren't willing to take the time and effort. So you see things like plastic rock (called stabilized) and imitation stone that goes by a variety of names, but is mostly polyester and acrylic.

Nothing looks, feels, and lasts like real rock. Take a look at a couple recent creations:
Oceana

Jungle Bowie

Cygnus-Horrocks

I've got some great new gem materials that I haven't slabbed out yet, and can't wait to use them!

Jay

 


The art of writing is the art of discovering what you believe.


-- David Hare


 

Testimonial

Jay,

 We just got back (took a little side trip) and I wanted to drop you a line thanking you for the tour of your shop. Very impressive. I really enjoyed learning about your experiences with the internet and plan to follow through on your advice.

 You know…   as I was going down to visit you, I was a little concerned I’d oversold myself on your knives. Once I saw them, it was just the opposite. They are even better in person. It is hard to explain. Even though I had seen them on your web and looked at the measurements, I expected a more massive, heavy feel to the knives. Instead I was treated to a refined, polished, mature, highly develop product.  Most knives I want to “grab” and see how they function. But, yours I pick up with a sense of awe. It is like picking up family heirloom china, certainly not because I’m afraid of breaking it, but it is almost a sense of reverence and respect. I want to turn it over in my hands and absorb it. You are an artist and your knives your canvas.

-C. Cramer

 


 

Dear Jay Fisher, 

I'm writing this note to thank you for having your website up. It was so informative I felt as if I got an educational experience just reading through it. I'm just recently getting into knives and I appreciate your perspective. You are very thorough, finely detailed, and, for one reason or another, I believe your opinions are truthful. I have very little experience in knives: that is, very little knowledge of them. 

I wasn't going to purchase a knife, or anything for that matter, without first learning about what I would be getting into. For that reason, you site has been most helpful. The only knife I have examined is the Navy Seal knife (SOG Knives E37 SEAL Pup Elite) because it sounded great with all the extensive testing the Navy has done to confirm the quality of the blade and handle... "tip breaking stress, blade breaking limit, sharpness, edge retention, handle twist off force, two week salt water immersion tests, gasoline and acetylene torch resistance, chopping, hammering, prying, penetration tests, cutting six different types of rope and line, plus an intense hands-on competition in the field." I know I have a lot more reading to do. But using that knife as a base, I did learn a few things, thanks to you: there is no military tactical folding knife; AUS 8 steel is nothing special, it's also known as 440B; the thinner the blade, the sharper the knife. However, I'm still not sure about serrations. Is it a good thing or not. Would you rather have a knife with serrations at the end of the blade, near the handle, or no serrations at all. I understand that it shortens the cutting edge, it'll tear up the sheath, etc. But more importantly, what is the story with those semi-dull serrations that run along the top of the blade? 

Black powder makes it looks fancier, but as you said, what it's really doing is covering up the blemishes. I know in (briar) pipe making this process is called rusticating. In this case, they are using hardcased Black TiNi, whatever that means. I have a lot more to learn. In any case, I simply wanted to thank you very much. I'll be going through your site and the links you've mentioned more closely.

I wish you well. Thank you very much. Sincerely, J. S.

Hi, J. Thanks for writing, and thanks for your kind words about my site. 

You've got a lot of good points from my site, and I appreciate that. This extensive "testing" can be done by anyone, anywhere, in any setting, and is in no way a field combat comparison of real world use of a knife. Most knives can satisfy basic requirements. For example if a knife needs to withstand a breakage test, you simply leave it thick. It makes for a horrible cutting tool (chisel) but it will withstand "testing." Most of this stuff is just made up by whoever is selling the knife. After all, who is there to verify this testing?  

About serrations: the decision is really one of personal preference. When I started making serrated knives for my military clients the one thing requested is that they actually cut, and if any of the teeth break off, they keep cutting. I developed several versions of serrations; they are thin at the tips, extremely sharp and can easily saw through oak or hickory hardwoods. Most of factory serrations are left thick (just like the blades) to save on machining expenses and time. They simply are ornamental. Any serrations on the spine of the knife are useless if meant for cutting unless it is first a double-edged knife. I've made those too, but they are highly specialized tools or artistic pieces. Could the "dull" serrations at the top of the blade you are referring to be filework, or jimping? If so, these are decorative or milled cuts to give some additional finger purchase on an otherwise slick spine, or are a decorative art form. For true blade serrations, they need to be incredibly sharp and aggressive, and a knife client needs to carefully consider if he'll need them or not. Few of my CQC (close quarters combat) knives have them, nearly all of my CSAR (Combat Search and Rescue) knives have them. I've heard of some of them used to saw through aircraft skins. 

The black TiN you refer to is titanium nitride coating, used on machine tools for added abrasion resistance and added lubricity when high speed cutting on other metals with twist drills, milling cutters, reamers, etc. In knives and other such products, it's just ornamental.

Thanks for your inquiry, Jay

 

 


 

Q: (No introduction)

I like the idea of bluing the blade to make it darker but I'm wondering, exactly how much more resistant to rusting will an O-1 steel blade be after Hot bluing and mirror polishing? After Hot bluing and mirror polishing an O-1 steel blade would it be as forgiving as a blade made from ATS-34? If I understand what I've read correctly D-2 and O-1 are the only steels you hot blue since 440C and ATS-34 are stainless steels? I just don't like the idea of spraying the blade down with silicon spray or some kind of oil/wax, what a mess. On long camping or hunting trips I might not have any of that stuff handy on top of that.

I have a folder made out of 154CM which has not rusted even after touching it with sweaty hands and forgetting to wipe it off for a day or so. Would a hot blued and polished O-1 steel blade be comparable to my 154CM folder in terms of "forgiveness"? When I first got it that sort of worried me. The box it came in warned me with big bold letters about rust because of a higher carbon content, but it hasn't happened.

A: Hello,

I don’t know your real name because you neglected to include it, yet you felt the need to write me this lengthy commentary, so, with respect, I’ll respond.  You are correct about bluing. Bluing is a passive oxidation process, meant to inhibit corrosion, not prevent it. Yes, blued blades are just like blued guns. They will corrode and rust if not properly cared for. That means keeping the blade dry, perhaps oiled or waxed, just as you would a fine firearm. In no way does this compare with stainless or stain resistant steels like 440C, ATS-34, 154CM, or D2.  

You’re wrong about my claim that I blue D2 and O1. I only blue O1 and low carbon steels. D2 has 12% chromium and is therefore stain resistant, but not a true stainless steel. Even the name “stainless” is a misnomer, because in order to be classified as a stainless steel, the steel has to have over 13% chromium. Is that a magic number where corrosion automatically stops? No, of course not, it is just a benchmark used in the professional machinists and ANSI specs to classify steels. ALL TOOL STEELS CAN RUST AND CORRODE, EVEN STAINLESS STEELS! If you leave orange juice or blood on 440C, it will flat out rust and pit. Store the same corroded knife in a damp leather sheath, and your stainless steel will be reduced to a rusty bar of junk. It’s all relative. There is no absolutely corrosion-proof tool steel, but there are austentitic stainless steels that come close (like 316 and 304), but these are not hardenable, and not tool steels.

You say you don’t like the idea of having to spray or wax your knife blade, are you the same way about your firearms? Do you just neglect your blued firearms and let them rust? And you claim, “what a mess.” You’ve obviously not used any of the modern preservative products, because there is no “mess.”

Back to your initial question. Bluing DOES inhibit corrosion, and mirror polishing helps. After 25 years of experience making knives, including for active duty combat military, and having made about two thousand knives professionally, I can say that the owners of these knives are quite happy with the blades. Yes, they know that they have to take care of them, and even during long excursions, the steels hold up very well. It’s all a matter of preference. Some guys even like the patina and used look that comes with a high carbon alloy tool steel like O-1.

Your folder made of 154CM barely classifies as a stainless steel. It is essentially the same steel as ATS-34 in alloying elements. Since it usually contains about 13% chromium (ATS-34 Contains slightly more chromium , about 14%, so it is a little more corrosion resistant), that is why they included the warnings about rust on your box. The comment shows, however, how illiterate the company is about their own product. It isn’t carbon that makes steel corrosion resistant; in modern tool steels it’s the amount of chromium and other alloying elements as well as hardness and exposure to corrosive environments that determine how a knife blade resists corrosion through the years.

An O-1 blade, by the way, cannot and does not compare to 154CM, they are completely different tool steels. O-1 is a high carbon, high tungsten-vanadium alloy tool steel, and its main benefits are: ease of sharpening in the field, capable of a razor-keen aggressive edge, low initial cost, uniform hardenability with repeated tempering options, ease of machining, low overall cost, and ability to be …. Hot blued.

My name is Jay Fisher www.jayfisher.com

 P.S. high chromium stainless steels can be blued for color effect. The process is expensive and complicated, and few professional users or collectors are interested in it.

 


 

Testimonial

Hello Jay,

    I am just starting out in knifemaking, and I would just like to say thanks for the inspiration. Every knifemaker should visit your site to see what real craftsmanship and damn good knives look like.

Trevor Walsh

 


 

Q: How old do you think a person should be before getting then a knife, dagger, or sword?

--C. C.

A: Hello, C. Thanks for writing. I think it would depend on the person's parents and their upbringing. Some parents realize they have responsible children, and to have a tool which can be dangerous requires great care. I guess a good answer would be when they are old enough to know how to use a sharp kitchen knife.

--Jay

 


 

Positively locking combat grade knife sheath, made of corrosion resistant aluminum, kydex, stainless steel, and blued steel.

Locking combat sheath with horizontal-vertical and reversible utility belt loop hardware.

Every now and then, I get a letter that moves me. It is one of the reasons I'm so hard on factories and other knife makers about their work. It disturbs me greatly to know that our men and women are not carrying the best knives into battle that this country is capable of producing. Here's one of those letters and my response.

Sir,
I'm currently deployed to Iraq and found that a back up is a must have. I work in closely with the local population and my weapon at time's cannot be used due to distance or situation. I have a fainbrain-Applegate full size fighting knife now. I read your web page and you seem to know what's going on with knifes and sheaths. The problem I have is: I don’t have the proper sheath. I need a combat locking sheath like in your pictures, so I can access my knife in a split second. The best and most concealed place while in IBA is  the small of my back. Mounting the knife horizontal on my belt seems the best. If you have any ideas on what to do or a different path to take please let me know.

-TSgt H.L.
 Ali AB, Iraq

Hello, TSgt L. Thanks for writing. And thank you for your service to our country. 

Your letter hit me hard. It is truly sad that manufacturers and makers of knives do not carefully consider the sheath when making and selling their knives, and do not consider the lives that may be at stake because they do not supply an adequate or useful sheath. All I can do is not make that mistake on my own knives.  

I’m sorry that I can not make a sheath for your knife. My locking and combat grade sheaths are constructed with the knife, in concert, so that components like thumb rises, ricasso ramps, edge clearances, and mounting variations must happen in the construction of the knife, so that a workable locking sheath can be designed around the knife, with the knife. Each individual sheath can only fit a specific knife. Unfortunately, I cannot build a sheath around a factory knife or other maker’s knife, as they don’t build the knife with the components and geometry that will allow a locking sheath to work. Beyond that, I get so many requests to correct inadequate sheath work that I would be out of the knife making business, and into the sheath making business only. Even if I did take on that type of work, it would require the knife in my hands while you would be left in the field unarmed.

I do make an extremely good combat knife, and can make it to your specifications, to fit a specifically designed locking combat sheath of my own construction. I know my work is not cheap, but I’ve got one of the best track records of useful and durable combat and tactical knives and sheaths in the business.

I know this does not help you at the moment. In the chance that they might be of help, I would contact the company or maker who made the knife and ask them to outfit their knife with a proper sheath. Please be brutally honest in their shortcomings of the sheath they supply for their knife, because it is your life and other lives at stake.

Barring that, you may have to do what I’ve heard of other soldiers doing in the field: using found parts, moleskin, leather bindings, bent metal, screws and other parts to make their sheaths work. I’m terribly sorry I could be of no further help.

 

Jay

 


 

Testimonial

Hello Jay:

I received the "Kid" on Thursday afternoon ... I was stunned by the quality of the knife. I showed the knife to several co-workers who were also extremely impressed. The hook, I was informed, should be used for opening a deer or large fish up.

Your web site cannot show the quality or feel that your knives have. Thank you for finishing the knife and getting it to me on time. It will make the trip with me!

Yours truly: P. K.

P.S. Please make the "Hercules" any way you want! Whatever etching you choose will be fine. I trust your judgment completely!

 

 


 

Too many captains may steer a boat up a mountainside.

--Korean Proverb


 

Testimonial

Upon hearing about being named as the best living knife maker in 2007 Best of the West:

Hello Jay,

I am glad to hear about the new honor, Jay.  I agree with them.  I have used the Muleshoe for some time now and it still looks and cuts as if it were brand new.  Congratulations!  I don't need to tell you to keep up the good work.  I know that you will.

J.L.

 


 

Mr. Fisher,

Would you please send me a brochure/catalog? Thank you in advance!

I do have one quick question: If someone wanted to purchase custom knives for investment purposes, is it a better idea to commission these knives rather than buy from the maker's stock? You are by far my favorite knife maker. Have been for years. I think your philosophy and endorsement of gemstone handles makes perfect sense.

Aaron T.

 

Hello, Aaron. Thanks for writing. Thanks also for your kind words about my work.

To answer your question, it makes no difference from the standpoint of investment value and appreciation of a collector's knife whether the knife was custom made or purchased from the maker's inventory. You'll get the lowest price from the maker either way, because as soon as the knife goes to a dealer or a collector, the price goes up.

The differences are that by ordering a custom work, you'll get exactly the knife you want, but if you see one you want in inventory, the big advantage is that you don't have to wait for delivery. For example, right now, my orders are running 9 months to a year. Several steady clients have put in extra orders because they believe my order period may be two years soon, and that can be a long time to wait for a knife.

In addition to the brochure, I'm sending you my CDROM catalog of my work, no charge. It's a full CD with over a thousand pics of my work. Let me know what you think of it.

Thanks Aaron,

Jay

 


 

Jay,

I received Gemini today. It's incredibly beautiful! The pictures didn't do it justice at all. The file work is impeccable, the style of the blade is perfectly curved, and the Siberian jade handle is shockingly green. The knife seems to have been made for my hand. I am pleased I made the decision to buy it. It will become an heirloom to be passed down for generations. Thanks for all your fine work.

Most sincerely, J.H.A.

 


 

Hello sir,      

              My name is Joseph M. I am 24 yrs old and have always enjoyed the art of creation since I was a young boy. Iv always been interested in the beauty high polished rock and minerals, metals, and even glass. But lately I've been really involved in the creation of knives, and has developed as my dream to start a knife business. I am currently taking scrap metal from an arbor shop I work at to make knives. I'd like to thank you most of all  for the freedom of your work to the public and info you've provided on your website for all the knife hounds out there. you've been a great inspiration to the beginning of my new legacy in knife making. So to get to what I've been waiting ask you is, as a beginner in knife making, I was hoping you could spare me any of your knowledge as to how I could get started cheap. At the moment all I have is a 4 1/2" right angle grinder and a 16" bench grinder. What do I need? Id also really appreciate it if you could send me your brochure.

                                                                                     --your distant student Joseph

Hello, Joseph.

Thanks for your kind words about my work, and welcome to knife making. The first thing I’d suggest is to invest in some good books on knife making, and there are several good texts out there. That way, you’ll get a clear idea of what it takes, and you can develop a budget for tools. The tools, knowledge, and time are the most important things. I started out making knives with just a hand grinder and sandpaper, but it became clear that in order to produce finer works, a belt grinder was a requirement. If I had to start all over, the belt grinder would be my first consideration and investment.

 

Good luck! Jay

 


 

Testimonial:

Any serious knife combatant or collector who hasn't experienced Jay's quality really doesn't know how good a knife can be. It's beyond precision, the finest materials, or even art. Jay has a quality that is unique in the world: a sense for perfection in application, as well as beauty. When you feel the balance, you'll never want to go back to any other, but when you see the look, you'll want to put it in a jewel case! What a great conundrum.

--Tom and Joe, your www.BladeCombat.com team.

 

 


 

Treat your guest as a guest for two days; on the third day, give him a hoe.

--Swahili proverb

 


 

Hi Jay!
 
Postman just arrived ;)  My comments before were exactly right, this is a beautiful knife! Thank you for job very well done, hopefully we do business again.

K.N.

 


 

Hello, I'm looking for a very strong gravity knife, and or stilletto type. I had one years ago and it broke from pretending it was a throwing knife. It saved me once from being mugged, and being im working late nite shifts again well. Any ideas cost material etc. would be appreciated. I'd prefer your strongest blade and handle combination coupled with lightweight strength.

R.L.



I do make fine folding knives, some unusual sliding blades, and other proprietary mechanism knives. There are several points to consider.

The term "strong" referring to a folder is tenuous at best. No matter how a folder is made, it has that inherent weak point: the pivot. Many attempts throughout history have been made to strengthen that focal point, yet no one can get around the fact that the most stressed part of the entire knife (the junction of the blade and handle) is exactly where we put that little axle to rotate it. Just look at fixed blade knives. They have heavy bolsters right where that pivot is...

It's easy to see now why so many of my military clients have insisted on full tang knives. Some even require the strength to "shove it in a rock and stand on it for an hour or two if needed."

If you are set on a folder though, I do make them. They usually come with close tolerance polished and hardened stainless steel bushings, replaceable springs, adjustable spring and lock tension. They break completely down for maintenance/cleaning with SS machine screws. They start at about $650. I don't know what your budget is for this knife, but I have over 160 different styles. Fixed blades start at $250, and quite a few of these are in the hands of military, law enforcement, and civilians who trust their lives to them.

Jay

 


 

Testimonial

Jay,

The knife arrived today safe and sound. It is far more amazing in person than I could have imagined. My challenge now is to actually deploy such a work of art in the field (the first scuffs will be the hardest, after that it should get easier). I have never owned anything like this, thank you. I know it will be a great companion for many, many years.

Thank you again for all your help and patience with my questions.

Cheers, E. C.

 

 


 

Hey. It's like squeezing wine from a snake.

--Jay

 


 

Testimonial

"I received it Sat. It is a magnificent piece of workmanship. The engraving on the blade is
fantastic. The creative talons of ivory are a unique touch. The stonework is such as I have never
seen. Very original. Thanks so much. It is sharp too! It must be very gratifying to be able to make
a living from a craft you love..Thinking about another idea for a working knife…I’ll let you
know."
                                                                                                 -B.M.

 


 

Just one more question if you don't mind answering being that I am 19 years old, I am in search of a career but something that I am interested in and well I Love Knives! can never ever get enough of them! Well my question is this, as a custom knife maker Jay, Is knife making a rewarding career and if so how would I go about pursuing it? thank you for your time


Joe

Hi, Joe. 

What I often suggest is that young people try as many things as they can find that interest them, and one will survive, not because it’s productive, but because it satisfies an internal interest and keeps going within you. This is what I did; you can see it in my bio on my site. For me, knifemaking fit well, but I only knew that for sure after years of making. Other interests will always be with you, but some will stand out. Try every one that comes along, and remember that an education in any field will help you in a chosen one. For knifemaking in particular, there is no specific, accredited course or study format. It is actually a fairly rare tradecraft. The only one that may come close is jeweler or metals arts, which are both taught in universities.

Thanks, Jay

 

 


Thanks Jay. We all really appreciated that you took time out of your day, as busy as you are, to let us come by and check everything out. It was very impressive to see all the work, skill and care that goes into the knives you produce. I also wanted to express thanks for being so supportive toward what were trying to do, and more so, the military in general. We all thought that was really nice. I'm really excited about this knife, just the plastic cut out today was neat, I cant wait to see the finished product.       Once again thanks,

N.F., USAF Pararescue

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Need general details? Jump to the FAQ Page here.

 


 


Q: As I spend more and more time in the water and trying to hack my way out ouf the mess my dog gets me into I find I need a simple knife. My Ernie Emerson (no not Bench made) is great for a pocket knife. My Randy Martin is a spectacular neck knife but I need something affordable that can clear rigging, fishing line and nets on my rescue dives. I need a working knife that will take a licking and keep on ticking. I also can use a auto knife as MicroTech’’s Chameleons are dangerous (to my hands and my BDU’’s and the HALO’’s just don’’t hold up. The commercial dive knives just don’’t cut the mustard. Simplicity pleas with maybe ""That other’’s may live"" will do.
Thanks, D.W.

A: It sounds like you've covered all your bases, and you're looking for your number one tool. If you've perused my site, you've seen that I make quite a few, in quite a range for serious users as well as collectors.
Two particular models come to mind. I make an Instructor's knife for the USAF Pararescue School in ABQ. It is based on the PJLT frame: a clean, simple, no frills model with a tough ATS-34 bead-blasted blade, nickel-silver -or- 304 stainless steel bolsters, linen reinforced micarta handle, in a kydex and aluminum sheath. These models start at $250 for the N-S fittings, and go up from there. I can email you a nice jpeg picture of this knife, if you'd like.
If you are interested in the -ULTIMATE- dive-rescue knife, the full sized Pararescue is the ticket. This is one of the finest, toughest knives I make, and the feedback from military users is excellent. It is a heavy, tough, thoroughly waterproof model of 440C, 304 stainless bolsters, no filework to hold salt or debris, no milling under the full tang that could possibly trap water. It comes in a positive-locking sheath made of Kydex, Aluminum, and stainless steel. It is on the "Current Knives for Sale" page of my web site, look for the Ivory micarta handle.
Now, if you don't see what you like available, or if you have a specific budget in mind, I'll work with you. You might require aggressive rip teeth, a skeletonized handle, or special fitting requirements. I can customize, etch your name/unit logo/military flash permanently on the blade. I guarantee my workmanship for my lifetime. Who could ask for more? Jay

 


 

Testimonial

Hey, Jay!

Even my wife was awed! "Wow..." was what came out in a whisper! What a gorgeous knife, but clearly meant for its intended pupose. There is no doubt that P. will treasure it both for its beauty and for its utility. Thanks again for everything!

--E.M.

 



"When I die I want to go like my grandfather did, quietly in his sleep.  Not
screaming like the passengers in his car."

 


 

Testimonial

"I just received the Blackwater in the mail and I am truly astounded. Every aspect, tip to tang, is the work of a true craftsman. The photo was basically useless as a judge of the work, none of the details are fully expressed. The amazing geometry, the beautiful engraving, the complexities in the handle, the lines and the edge... oh boy. You realized that a knife is the whole package and you took time to perfect EVERY aspect. NO weak points, which is very rare on a knife as there will always be one thing I'm not satisfied with. What impressed me the most was the PERFECT balance. I have used thousands and own almost a hundred (from $4000 damascus folders to production neck knives) and I can say without question that this is the most balanced knife I have ever, ever had the pleasure to handle. It glides through the air like water. Beyond description. I can only dream of what a Katan by you would feel like. Add in the fantastic sheath and it is the best bargain on a knife I have ever bought. Jay thanks again, and from my son whom I'll no doubt pass this on too."

Andrew D.

 


 

Forum post by Jay:


Hello. In response to your posting on May 11, I'm one of those "blade masters" who used to post on (Name withheld) Forums for a while and don't anymore. Yes, I'm very successful, and extremely busy, but still take a few minutes every now and then with my morning tea to browse the forums.
I don't post because there are too many novices asking ridiculous questions and a lot of misinformation floating around. It's a waste of time to answer questions and argue with ignorance, no matter your dedication to the trade.
I am a professional, having supported myself completely with my knives and weapons for many years. The word "professional" is extremely important, my international clients and military depend on that attitude and perspective. Unfortunately, this is lacking in most of the commentary.
I understand how knife making starts: from an interest, to a hobby, to a craft, and ultimately art, but most makers are stuck in the first two categories. Numerous attempts have been made over the years to "Professionalize" our trade, but have failed in the light of bloated egos, flippant attitudes, and outright greed. I'd love to discuss some of THOSE stories...
I want you to know we are out here, blending science with art, on the cutting edge of technology and business, and available for any conversation you wish to initiate.
Jay

 


 

Testimonial

Dear Jay - just a short note to let you know that my cyele arrived yesterday and I put her right to work prepping dinner.

My initial impression is one of lovely lines, nice balance, and great artistry in her design and fine craftsmanship in execution. I own a number of custom kitchen blades, and your cyele is a standout in every respect.

Many thanks, Jay - and my deepest appreciation for your skill.

--Doug Cremer
 

 


 

["signature" graphic included with this email submission]

I was just wondering what it would cost for a dagger and a stand for it that was completely custom? I don't know much about daggers, but am looking at getting one for symbolic purposes. If I presented an artisit design, could you do it? Is your skill level able to pull off something from paper?

Thanks in advance,

Great website and very informative. I would consider a resign though for display. The average person wouldn't have strained so much to find what they are looking for on the site. The content is good.

--S.C.

Hello, S. Thanks for writing.

The price of an art dagger completely depends on the components of the dagger. Also, the finish must be considered, and embellishment, tooling, stand, case, or sheath. There are a lot of options when one chooses a complete custom knife. You can read about these individually on my Custom knife Quote and order page here. I can and do work with clients’ designs, but because this entails a lot of drawing, tuning, consideration for geometry, steel types, and general design work, it still requires the design deposit. You can read about the details of the design fee here

Thank you for your comments about my site. The site is complex; it’s a very complex field of artistry that I’m in. I’m not worried about the “average person” finding their way through my site, my site is geared toward knife aficionados and professionals, and they are very happy with the content and layout. Ah, if this field were only simple enough to have a simple site, with a couple pictures, and about three prices for knives… (smile) 

May I be so bold as to offer you some advice, in kind? When you include your graphic with your email, nearly every firewall and modern email program stops your email cold, because of the possibility of the graphic containing malicious code. I had to retrieve your email from beyond my firewall. I almost deleted it… just a head’s up. 

Thanks for your interest, and I’d love to see your design.

Jay Fisher

 


 

Testimonial:

Hi Jay, the Macha Knife is Awesome!!

Mate the knife you sent me is totally wild! It has a great feel in my hand and well balanced too. This knife is already fitted to my Tac Vest and it will serve me well over here in Baghdad. I have shown only a few and some of them are very excited and one who wants an exact replica of my knife. Thanks again Jay for this truly remarkable weapon! I will be in touch,

Your Aussie Mate in Iraq! --T.M.

 If you cant Stand Behind our Troops...Then Stand in front of them

 

 


 

With time and patience, even the mulberry leaf becomes a silk gown.

--Chinese proverb

 


 

Testimonial

Howdy Jay,

I wanted to drop you a quick line for several reasons. First and foremost, your website is by far one of the finest custom knife sites I've been to. Unlike every other website out there now, yours actually has a warm organic tone to it. Not only is it full of great art, info, and patterns, I (a horrifically computer illiterate newbie) can easily find my way around the whole site.

--J. Costello

 


 


Q: I would like know the availability and price of this knife.
USAF Pararescue "The Kid."
I don't like to assume, Will it be suitable for Ocean diving?
Thanks, P.H.


A: I make "The Kid" in various forms. The simplest is bead blasted 440C Stainless steel with Nickel silver bolsters and bead blasted micarta handle with a clip type kydex sheath. It costs $245.00
"The Kid" pictured on my website under "Military and Pararescue" knives is the full blown model, featuring mirror polished 440C stainless with fuller (blood groove), 304 stainless steel fittings, Gemstone handle, double locking gravity hook blade (all stainless steel machined components with close tolerances) and a Locking stainless, kydex and aluminum sheath. It is "marine grade" salt water proof and costs $1200.00
There are variations between the two. Take a look at the fourth pic on my "Current Knives for Sale" page. This knife falls between those listed above. It is the only one I have available now, and can be custom engraved for personalization.
Currently, I have a backorder list from 4 to 6 months long. I would be happy to make you any knife of your choosing, just let me know!

Jay

 


 

Testimonial:

Got the knife today. Fantastic! Looks great. Do you make any Bowie knives? If so do you have
any pictures?

                                                                                                      --J.V.

 


 

You can not make a difference, unless you're doing something different.

 

 


 

Testimonial:

"I wanted to send you a short note to let you know just how much I am enjoying and owning the fine Muleshoe knife you made. It embodies the practical and the artistic brought together seamlessly by your marvelous craftsmanship. I look forward to using it for many years to come. Clearly a knife designed for use, it is also stylistically and elementally a true New Mexican knife. I really do appreciate it. Thank you again for coming up with a useful tool that is so beautifully evocative of the place I call home. I wish you the best of luck in all you do, and I hope you keep making knives for a long long time to come.

All my best, --J.L."


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Need general details? Jump to the FAQ Page here.


 

Q: I'm almost ready to send you send you my drawing. I re-did the whole blade after I thought about my fighting style. No more "impact weapon" butt-cap. It's a MUCH more elegant blade with a very strong emphases on the stab; similar to a Stiletto. You might think it's too thin width wise. Which brings me to my question about your kydex sheaths. I'd like to be able to strap it on my forearm, upper arm, lash it on a modular/ MALICE/ALICE vests, or the traditional way on my belt. I think a few of those options might require slot-holes on outer edges of the sheath.  Will the fact that the knife is streamlined also make the sheath itself extremely compact/thin? I can also draw that out as well if that's a little hard to picture. Thanks for your time.

A: I'm very interested to see your drawing of this blade. We can talk about the geometry then.

About the sheath: It's quite a challenge to have a "universal" sheath that fits all mountings. When I've attempted this in the past, the client usually opts for his main or sometimes secondary wear, foregoing some other options. The reason is that with a lot of options, the sheath becomes larger and larger, with clips and straps and rivets and rings... it gets pretty big. Some clients have multiple sheaths for a single knife, I've done this too. About forearm wear, this doesn't seem to work well, because the wrist end of the arm is so much smaller than the meaty part toward the elbow that when the knife is pulled, the sheath slides down the arm with it. I've seen this countered by a set of straps that goes up the sheath arm, around the neck on the opposite side! That's a heck of a lot of wear for what seems to be a simple sheath.

These are just some observations for your consideration. I'm looking forward to your drawings.

Thanks,
Jay

 


 

I was reminded of Miyamoto Musashi, and his lethal demonstrations with a wooden practice sword, having evolved to a point of not even needing an edged weapon...There is a point when the art of human form and movement surpasses objects. Then, the objects themselves become an artistic expression of that form and motion.

--Jay

 


 


Q: I am a PJ stationed at the 38 RQS at Moody AFB. I was interested in having a modified version of the "Midnight" tactical knife made. What I am
interested in is having the more aggressive serration pattern and having the handle done in maroon linen with a lanyard hole. Also, I would definitely
want a locking sheath and loops for a belt and not a belt clip. If you could give me an idea of what that would run and a time frame on production
that would great. Thanks, K.C.

A: Hello, K.  Thanks for writing. Sure, I can do a Midnight Tactical in the way you requested. I need to know: Hot blued bead blasted high carbon alloy? (That's the flat black look) Or bead blasted stainless, or mirror polished stainless steel? The locking stainless sheath adds about $150 to the cost of the piece.
The prices range from $395 to $495 with micarta handle. I move PJs to the front of my job list, so I could probably work it in the next month or two.

 

Hoo Ya! Thanks, Jay

 


 

Testimonial:

"I have to search for words to describe my impressions.  My first impression was that the sheath by itself is a substantial and excellent piece, solid and well executed.  My second impression was, “Man, how do you get this thing out of the sheath!”, but that was a function of working the knife in and out a few times.  The Mercator itself seems to defy physics: it is a large, substantial knife, yet the balance is such that it feels like an extension of the hand and without significant weight.  The fit and finish are impeccable, the fit to the hand very natural…the Mercator just begs to be used!  However, I will leave that to the Special Forces Officer for whom it is intended! I am very confident that he will be very pleased with it!  Thanks, Jay, for your cooperation and craftsmanship.  I look forward to working with you on the new project!"

 Best regards, E. M.

 

 


 

Whoever plays with cats must not fear their claws.

--Egypt

 


 

Testimonial:

Hey Jay!  Just got the knife today.  WOW!!!  The pics you sent me did NO justice to the knife at all.  This is BY FAR the nicest knife I have ever owned!  I was also pleasantly surprised by how nice the sheath came out.  For the last few months I have been second guessing my decision for the locking sheath.  Now I am glad I went in that direction.  The pics I have seen of that sheath do not show how sturdy and well built that thing really is.  I think you may need to show a side profile of that in one of the pics.  That large slab of aluminum will show people its more than just kydex bolted together.  I think your description says how it is built – but I didn’t understand till I actually saw it in person!  Anyways, thank you for a GREAT knife!  I will look forward to enjoying it for many years!  Also, I'm already planning my next one.  You can be sure that I will be showing it off to all my friends and letting them know about you and the quality of your work!  (most already know as I've been talking about these knives for quite a while – but I think they will be astonished when they see they experience your work first hand)

 Thanks again, Adam Vuksich

 

 


 


Q: how would one get started in handmaking swords?  

                                            --S.A.T.


A: One would study and read every piece of material one could acquire on hoplology (the study of ancient weapons) and modern knife and sword making.

                                                                    --Jay

 


 

Testimonial:


"Dear Jay:

Yesterday I came home after a long day at work and was pleasantly surprised to see a box from you. That was fast, efficient service! When I opened the box I was blown away. Your knife was everything you said and more. It was not only beautifully made, comfortable to hold, magnificent to look at and sharp enough to cut a whisper, it was also well balanced and unlike most fine artwork which you are terrified to touch for fear that you might damage it, totally tangible. There is nothing like steel and stone for a combination. It feels better than any other knife I own and I have knives from many other great masters, Ray Beers, Reese Weiland and many more. I am not disparaging their work, they are masters and I will never trade or sell their work, but your knife gave me a totally different feeling. I have decided to try to buy one to two of your knives exclusively for the next couple years (depending on what I can talk you into)."
                                                                                                                           --D.K.

 


 


I was searching your pages looking for a gift for a friend. The Durango was very catchy. I would like to find out a price for this knife and if you have this in stock or something maybe fairly close.
Also, do you come to Tucson to the shows here any time ??
Thanks for your time,
                                                            S.C.


S.C.,
The Durango is a popular style, and I've made it in dozens of different handle materials. The price of a piece depends on the embellishment, handle material, blade finish, sheath or stand, engraving, etching, etc. Prices for the Durango start at $450 for an exotic hardwood or similar handle with brass fittings, and $650 for a gemstone handle with stainless fittings. I guarantee my workmanship and your satisfaction, if you receive the knife and don't love it, you don't buy it. My waiting period for new orders is six to 12 months due to my military knife orders.
I don't have anything in stock exactly like the Durango you highlighted, but I'll be posting some new models on my "for sale" page in the next few weeks. I can send you images, or we can discuss particulars through email.
The only show I'm doing this year is the Knifemaker's Guild in Orlando in July, but if you're ever in NM, stop by!
Thank you,
Jay

 


 

Testimonial:

"Dear Jay:

Perfect!  And that is all I’ll say.  I could say perfectly balanced, magnificent, beautiful, incredible file work, professionally executed, flawlessly finished masterpiece with the most beautiful handle I have ever seen on any knife period – but I think I will just stick with Perfect!" 

--D.

 


 

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence then, is not an act, but a habit."

--Aristotle
 


 

Testimonial:

 

Jay,

I received my knife a few days ago and I wanted to write you and tell you how pleased I am with the knife you created for me.  Jay, ordering a knife from you is a journey!  I can remember my first glance at your web sight, looking at all those beautiful, rugged, and inspiring knives you have created for your clients.

Then I began to read the copious amounts of information you have written about on so many topics related to a quality knife, and for that matter, lousy knives.  I took a side road or two to research the information you write about on your sight and I can say this: your information is accurate, your opinions are based on exceptional research, years of experience, and just plain good sense.  And yes, I did research some of the topics you wrote about to test the information you provided.  This took me many months, but it was well worth it to know that the individual I was going to do business knew what he was talking about, had proven experience, and applied his knowledge to his work.  You do!

The next leg of my journey was to actually call and talk to you; that was intimidating, believe it or not.  Thank you for putting me at ease and for taking the time away from your studio and works in progress to educate me, listen to my expectations, and to manage them so carefully.

Next thing I knew I was giving you my story.  If you’ll recall, I told you about the hundreds of dollars I have spent over the last 20 years in purchasing knives that I though were of good or excellent quality, only to retire them to a plastic container in the garage filled with old knives that turned out to be a waste of money.  You asked me what I was going to be using my knife for, under what conditions, and then you started mold a vision for me of what my knife would look like.  I wanted a working knife, of exceptional form and function and a sheath that would hold my knife whether I was walking, running, climbing, or belly crawling through a variety of conditions.  I wanted an edge that was sharp and strong, but able to touch up in the field.  I often spent extended times in the field, so low maintenance was also a priority.

"Shank" 440C high chromium stainless tool steel blade, milled for light weight and utility, locking waterproof stainless steel, kydex, and aluminum sheathWell, Jay, you delivered!!  I received my knife and when I opened it, I was elated!  Not only did you meet my expectations, you exceeded them.  I have a knife and sheath that was worth EVERY bit of what I paid for it.  I will use it often with full confidence that it won’t let me down.  Believe it or not, I cannot wait until the day I can hand it down to one of my kids.  At first I felt my journey was over but after many times handling my knife, and proudly showing it off to others, I have a feeling another journey is in the making.

Jay, in this day and age of mass production, where we the consumer are often lied to and cheated through promises of good or even exceptional quality, it was fantastic to meet an ethical, honest business man who so carefully considers the needs and expectations of his customer as you do.  I consider it an honor and a pleasure to have done business with you, and look forward to future contacts with you.

 Joe Jurewicz

 

 


 

Q: Dear Jay:
I would be interested in ordering a knife. The pinon was the only one I saw on the web site and I found it very appealing, but would certainly be interested in your other models. I am looking for something "fancy", but not overly so. Please let me know the next step.

Thanks, G.H.
 

A: G.,
The next step is two fold. Size and price. Determine how much you want to budget for the piece, and what general size. Then we can discuss patterns, options, etc.


--Jay

 


 

Testimonial:

Hi Jay,

My Pecos II arrived in pristine condition. This is absolutely a work of art and the pictures on the website will never be able to fully capture the essence of this knife. As I suspected, the only thing that I want to do with it is display it proudly on my wall for everyone to see and for me to keep it in the condition that it arrived in.  I will take it out and handle it, I will polish and protect it and I will show everyone who comes over. Then I will put it back in its display case and threaten to kill anyone who leaves finger prints on it...

Really Jay, you do amazing work. Thank you for the patience that you show when I'm asking questions and the time that you take to add some personal notes in our email conversations. It makes me feel like I'm doing business with a friend and when you take the time to get to know your clients it makes the experience that much more enjoyable. I'm looking forward to the next addition to my family...that one I intend to actually cut something with :)

--Danny Barrett

Obverse view: Pecos 2 fine gemstone handled working, collectors knife with frog skin crossdraw sheath             Click here to see more pics and info on this fine knife

 

 


 

Jay,
 
I've emailed you in the past w/ questions and you've been quite helpful.  Again, your site is excellent and I've learned much from it.  I was wondering if you might know anything about 1.4116 stainless steel.  I can't find any specific information about this alloys qualities, only sites that are selling knives made with this metal come up.  Thank you for your past help and any help you can offer here.

--W.W.

Hi, W.

1.4116 stainless steel is a low carbon stainless steel, a very poor steel for knives indeed. The cheapest, most often sold mass-produced kitchen and steak knives are usually made of 420 series stainless steels. The 1.4116 stainless rates only slightly better, with a small amount of vanadium for wear resistance. In my opinion, W, this type of steel is only used on very cheap knives not expected to perform well.

-- Jay

 

 

 


Top of page

Need general details? Jump to the FAQ Page here.

 


 

Testimonial:

Jay, I bought the small Nihal with the jasper handle and my name engraved on the blade. My purpose for the knife was as a deer cleaning blade for internal work where a larger hunting knife just doesn’t work very well. I am pleased to report that this fine example of your art is exactly what I needed. It is incredibly sharp and even bone doesn’t dull the blade. When not in use in the field it sits on my desk as a letter opener. It is one of the finer possessions a man can treasure for his lifetime and then pass on to many future generations…knowing they will treasure it equally as well. 

Thank You,  J. Karnes
 

 


 

The weapon does not the warrior make.

 

 


 

Testimonial:

Jay,
As of yet no premonition has revealed the mystical powers bestowed to her but Wayland himself must have placed his hands upon your shoulders as he smiled with delight. Beautiful she is and trusted companion she'll become one truly for the ages. From the first and I hope not the last email to you  your customer service and attentiveness has been nothing less than first class, something retail and Big Box stores no longer offer. Another reason too buy a Jay Fisher knife!

Thank you  for accepting the commission of my first custom knife, I now know I made the right choice.

--Robert Ziliox

 


 

Jay,
Just visited your site and am looking for a dagger, having never owned one my first thought was Damascus but with financial reality it may not happen, my husband and I were particularly found of your Venus dagger, and would be interested in knowing how much it would be in a Damascus as well as the other possibility's. Thank You .....K & B F.


The price of the Venus dagger depends upon many things, as I make it in several different sizes and with different materials, embellishments, finishes, etc. A small dagger with clean lines will run about $300, medium sizes in the range of 600-1000, full embellished gemstone pieces on stands may run from 1500 on up. Are we still talking? Jay


Yes I believe we may still be talking.....was thinking something round about a 5" blade. Still stuck on the Damascus but would be open to any suggestions you might have. Having never owned a dagger myself am looking for something to go with a formal gown I have (Renascence type). My husband is a member of the E. Clampus Vitus organization and felt this style would make a nice touch to the gown. Still listening, look forward to hearing from you soon. K & B F.


A 5" Damascus blade would be a bit of an investment, probably 700-800 minimum, not including embellishment. The other problem is care and longevity. Good, bold patterns in pattern welded carbon steels are achieved by alternating layers of high and low carbon tool steels, steels that can be blued. Therefore, they can also rust. Just a little moisture left on this type of blade creates rust, and residing in a leather sheath can quickly rust the blade when moisture levels are only moderate. The third factor is strength, realizing that each layer boundary is a weld, and welds create stresses in the structure (but I know you're not too worried about that, right?). Of course, you can go with stainless Damascus, but that's more expensive.
For appearance, nothing beats 440C high chromium stainless die steel. It is hard, tough, finishes exquisitely, requires almost no care, maintains a high finish and is durable, and ridiculously easy to clean. This steel is the choice of military combat knife users, as well as police, bomb techs, SWAT teams, divers, and sailors. It is also the steel I use in all those beautiful art sculptures on my web site, on all the swords, and on the blade of my Partizan that is in the Tower of London.
Some collectors are even going to mirror finished hot blued blades, which can be jet black, cobalt blue, vermilion spotted, or straw gold, but these are simply oxidation processes that retard corrosion and can eventually wear off. I do those, too.
So, K., that might be more information than you require, so I'll hem it in some: I can make a 5" bladed dagger with hidden or full tang, high chromium mirror finished stainless steel, with a wooden or organic handle for $500, with a gemstone handle for $600. This would include a leather sheath. Embellishment: etching, engraving, lettering, mosaics, sheath finework, etc. would be extra.

How's that?
Jay

 


 

Testimonial:

Jay, what a truly incredible knife…! 

Every knife I get from you is simply a pure work of art. People say that about the software I write but in my case it can’t be held in your hand, admired for the fine creative lines of the scroll work, hefted in the hand for the joy of fine balance you have achieved or passed among friends for the look of awe and admiration it evokes. You are a true master.

Jerry M. Karnes

Houston, Texas

 

 


 

It is better to be a beggar than ignorant; for a beggar only wants money, but an ignorant person wants humanity.

–Aristippus

 


 

Hello, Mr. R. Thanks for writing, and taking the time to investigate my site and my work.

Yes, I do make handles out of other plastic materials. I have used and am using G10, nylon, delrin, and vulcanized fiber, as well as Micarta. I haven't used "soft" grips like Kraton, because, I believe, it has to be molded onto the knife, and flexibility might lead to durability problems.
Not many of my clients ask for that type of handle, either.

The serrations question you answered in a later email. I have several types of rip teeth, all very sharp and very thin. When I started making knives for the military, they requested teeth that work, that is: teeth that will cut, tear, and rip even if broken off. So I developed several different styles to accommodate directional cutting, cutting hardwoods, textiles, and bone.

About shiny blades: somewhere on my site (it's so large even I get lost sometimes!), I explain that military clients that carry mirror finished blades into combat are spraying them with camo paint, sheaths and all, then washing it off with lacquer thinner when they return from their tour. This way they've protected the finish somewhat, and had something very nice to hang on their wall afterwards, eventually to hand down to their children. At present, I do not coat blades  myself, because that would hide the grinds, hide any potential flaws, and chip and peel, eventually. I'll go on to answer here a question on your second email, about bluing. Bluing is a process of oxidizing ("rust" is a form of oxidation, uncontrolled and irregular). Hot bluing (which is what I do) is a controlled, deep passive oxidation process whereby the steel is cleaned thoroughly, chemically  and molecularly, then immersed in a superheated boiling solution of sodium nitrate and other salts, for 40 minutes or longer. This oxidizes the first several thousandths of an inch of the steel surface, which is a very deep penetration. The bluing process is the same used on all fine firearms, that black dark look that takes years to buff, scrape, or polish off. My process excels in penetration, where most firearms might be blued for 10-20 minutes, I start at 40. To give you an illustration, when I cut my makers mark into a blued blade using a diamond point engraver at 50 pounds per square inch, it takes three full passes to cut through the bluing to achieve a bright cut! To sum, hot caustic bluing is a well-recognized, time-proven method of inhibiting corrosion (not eliminating it) on the surface of steels. My own son (in the 101st Airborne) carries a hot blued skeletonized knife in combat in Iraq. So do his buds. They're very happy with the performance.

That being said, please remember, there is NO corrosion proof tool steel. Even 440C, which contains 17% chromium will rust and corrode in salts or acidic environments. Please look at my "care of your custom military knife" page on my website.

About the solid metal butt cap: There are several options, on a full tang knife, which is the strongest design, a supplemental bolster can be attached that will accomplish your objective. Extra care can be taken to attach it rigidly and permanently. The other option is a hidden tang knife, where the pommel is a butt cap, but it is not as physically strong. A third option is