Q: Jay, what is the best knife steel?
A: Oh, I get this one a lot. Someone wants a blade that will hold an edge forever, can shave hair off a mouse's tail, yet when it needs sharpening, a few light licks on the latest gimmick rock will transform it into a three pound razor. Sorry. Can't be. Knife steels are the most advanced they've ever been. High technology alloy tool steels are made the best they can be, metallurgy has reached it's pinnacle for our time. But there is no MAGIC STEEL. All steel uses, no matter the tool or application, must be carefully weighed for optimum performance. Fillet knives must be thin and springy, therefore cannot be extra hard, axes must be shock resistant and tough, therefore cannot be thin and brittle. A little common sense is required here. Use the best steel available for the application. And the application varies. So this is an unanswerable question. Try again.

Q: What's the longest wearing steel?
A: What are you cutting?
Q: Does it matter?
A: Yes, of course. Many materials are abrasive. Elk hair loaded with dirt (silicates and tiny rocks) is horribly abrasive. Some materials are acetic (fruits, blood, fats and fascia) and will etch the cutting edge away. Some plastics are amazingly abrasive.

Q: But I've seen tests where knives cut rope over and over. What's the deal?
A: Looks neat, huh? This merely tests the edge's ability to cut rope on a board. So if that's what you want, harden a piece of high cobalt, high tungsten exotic carbide to 85 rockwell on the C scale. If you can possibly get an edge on it, it will just about never wear out. But don't drop it! It will shatter like glass.  I'm being a bit facetious here, but look, a knife blade is usually used for a variety of operations. Cutting, scraping, slicing, picking, and light prying.

Q: WHAT? You said NEVER to pry with a knife!
A: You're in the advanced area of the web site, so let's get real here. Who hasn't lightly used the edge of a knife to dig, pull a tack out, lift a tough label. I said LIGHT.

Q: So I just want to know what is the best steel! Is that so hard to answer?
A: Sure it is. Do you want hardness with a thick edge? Will it see heavy use? Do you need it thin for a sharper edge angle? Do you need high corrosion and stain resistance?  Will you need to field sharpen it? Will it be used to flint-strike a fire? Will it be dropped? Do you need an aggressive tooth profile? Will it need an accurate spiked point for insertion? Do you need it easy to clean? Low reflectivity? Smooth profile? Shock profiled? Chop profiled? Will you clean it? Do you need to camo paint it? Is it a scalpel, a hammer, or a straight razor? Have you really considered just what, when, and how you'll use it? How much do you want to spend? Do you want a piece you can hand down to your grandchildren? Will it need to appreciate in value? Do you want to use it, then retire it on your mantle? Will it only gather dust on the inside of your credenza? Will you use it to castrate bulls, lop off rattlesnakes heads, dig in a Mesoamerican ruin? Will you cut tangled hawsers, clear the skin off a helo, rescue a Navy Seal from a wrecked APC? Will you keep the natives at bay when they tell you you can't point your weapon unless you are ready to shoot? Are you ready to get a real knife just for once in your life?
 

Now if you're thoroughly confused, perhaps you'd better start with the FAQ page here. And if   you're thinking about all those conversational details already, gather in some answered emails about knives on this page.

Testimonial

Testimonial

Q: i would want a knife that would require the least amount of maintenance and i like the special sheath or holder where a person can release the knife with ease. and the blade. will it keep an edge? i have purchased many "good looking" knives that will not hold a blade and this is frustrating to me. i want a knife that will hold a blade if such a knife does exist. please school me on your knives as far as not rusting and holding a blade....thank you for your earlier reply. D.K.

A: 440C would be a good candidate for very little maintenance. It contains 17% Chromium and 1.25% carbon making it the most corrosion resistant tool and die steel made. It is suitable for dive knives in salt water. The only thing that "attacks" the steel is concentrated acid.
ATS-34 is the next best thing. Three percentage points of chromium have been replaced by molybdenum, making ATS-34 a high chrome-moly tool steel. This allows for increased toughness, and is used where a thin cross-sectional area is used. It is more expensive than 440C.
Factory knives are usually made from 440A, 440B or 420 series stainless steels. The reason factories use these inferior steels is that they can be die-pressed (stamped) from sheet stock. The steels I use are usually what the dies are made from. The edge holding capability of properly heat-treated modern knife steels is astounding. A factory knife will typically need sharpened three times to field dress an elk, a good custom knife will dress three elk without ever touching the edge.
Sometimes, I get requests for "super-steel," a material that will hold an edge forever, cut through rocks, and will support a 280 lb. man when shoved into a tree. There is no such thing, that's Hollywood. But it is true that we have the technology to make the finest steels in existence today.
Sheaths: Leather is good, serviceable and attractive. Leather sheaths should last a generation with care, but are not waterproof. Kydex and aluminum frame with a tension fit is the next best type, and should last three generations. My best sheath is Kydex, aluminum, with a stainless steel locking mechanism, consisting of 38 components, suitable for ocean salt water. This military grade sheath will add $150 to the base price of a knife.

Jay

Testimonial

Hi Jay,

 Glad to hear the deposit made it! Our postal system here is far from efficient! I'm not too worried about how long you take. As I've said, this design has been in my head for a very long time. I can wait another year or two or whatever it takes. Thanks for taking the project on. The more I look at your website, the more I like some of your other designs. I can see myself possibly ordering again soon! Your gemstone handles are by far some of the most beautiful I've seen. I've yet to see any makers in Texas (or contiguous states, for that matter) at the shows produce handles such as these.

Have a good night, A. F.

Testimonial

Dear Jay Fisher, 

I'm writing this note to thank you for having your website up. It was so informative I felt as if I got an educational experience just reading through it. I'm just recently getting into knives and I appreciate your perspective. You are very thorough, finely detailed, and, for one reason or another, I believe your opinions are truthful. I have very little experience in knives: that is, very little knowledge of them. 

I wasn't going to purchase a knife, or anything for that matter, without first learning about what I would be getting into. For that reason, you site has been most helpful. The only knife I have examined is the Navy Seal knife (SOG Knives E37 SEAL Pup Elite) because it sounded great with all the extensive testing the Navy has done to confirm the quality of the blade and handle... "tip breaking stress, blade breaking limit, sharpness, edge retention, handle twist off force, two week salt water immersion tests, gasoline and acetylene torch resistance, chopping, hammering, prying, penetration tests, cutting six different types of rope and line, plus an intense hands-on competition in the field." I know I have a lot more reading to do. But using that knife as a base, I did learn a few things, thanks to you: there is no military tactical folding knife; AUS 8 steel is nothing special, it's also known as 440B; the thinner the blade, the sharper the knife. However, I'm still not sure about serrations. Is it a good thing or not. Would you rather have a knife with serrations at the end of the blade, near the handle, or no serrations at all. I understand that it shortens the cutting edge, it'll tear up the sheath, etc. But more importantly, what is the story with those semi-dull serrations that run along the top of the blade? 

Black powder makes it looks fancier, but as you said, what it's really doing is covering up the blemishes. I know in (briar) pipe making this process is called rusticating. In this case, they are using hardcased Black TiNi, whatever that means. I have a lot more to learn. In any case, I simply wanted to thank you very much. I'll be going through your site and the links you've mentioned more closely.

I wish you well. Thank you very much. Sincerely, J. S.

Hi, J. Thanks for writing, and thanks for your kind words about my site. 

You've got a lot of good points from my site, and I appreciate that. This extensive "testing" can be done by anyone, anywhere, in any setting, and is in no way a field combat comparison of real world use of a knife. Most knives can satisfy basic requirements. For example if a knife needs to withstand a breakage test, you simply leave it thick. It makes for a horrible cutting tool (chisel) but it will withstand "testing." Most of this stuff is just made up by whoever is selling the knife. After all, who is there to verify this testing?  

About serrations: the decision is really one of personal preference. When I started making serrated knives for my military clients the one thing requested is that they actually cut, and if any of the teeth break off, they keep cutting. I developed several versions of serrations; they are thin at the tips, extremely sharp and can easily saw through oak or hickory hardwoods. Most of factory serrations are left thick (just like the blades) to save on machining expenses and time. They simply are ornamental. Any serrations on the spine of the knife are useless if meant for cutting unless it is first a double-edged knife. I've made those too, but they are highly specialized tools or artistic pieces. Could the "dull" serrations at the top of the blade you are referring to be filework, or jimping? If so, these are decorative or milled cuts to give some additional finger purchase on an otherwise slick spine, or are a decorative art form. For true blade serrations, they need to be incredibly sharp and aggressive, and a knife client needs to carefully consider if he'll need them or not. Few of my CQC (close quarters combat) knives have them, nearly all of my CSAR (Combat Search and Rescue) knives have them. I've heard of some of them used to saw through aircraft skins. 

The black TiN you refer to is titanium nitride coating, used on machine tools for added abrasion resistance and added lubricity when high speed cutting on other metals with twist drills, milling cutters, reamers, etc. In knives and other such products, it's just ornamental.

Thanks for your inquiry, Jay

I like the idea of bluing the blade to make it darker but I'm wondering, exactly how much more resistant to rusting will an O-1 steel blade be after Hot bluing and mirror polishing? After Hot bluing and mirror polishing an O-1 steel blade would it be as forgiving as a blade made from ATS-34? If I understand what I've read correctly D-2 and O-1 are the only steels you hot blue since 440C and ATS-34 are stainless steels? I just don't like the idea of spraying the blade down with silicon spray or some kind of oil/wax, what a mess. On long camping or hunting trips I might not have any of that stuff handy on top of that.

I have a folder made out of 154CM which has not rusted even after touching it with sweaty hands and forgetting to wipe it off for a day or so. Would a hot blued and polished O-1 steel blade be comparable to my 154CM folder in terms of "forgiveness"? When I first got it that sort of worried me. The box it came in warned me with big bold letters about rust because of a higher carbon content, but it hasn't happened.

A: Hello,

I don’t know your real name because you neglected to include it, yet you felt the need to write me this lengthy commentary, so, with respect, I’ll respond.  You are correct about bluing. Bluing is a passive oxidation process, meant to inhibit corrosion, not prevent it. Yes, blued blades are just like blued guns. They will corrode and rust if not properly cared for. That means keeping the blade dry, perhaps oiled or waxed, just as you would a fine firearm. In no way does this compare with stainless or stain resistant steels like 440C, ATS-34, 154CM, or D2.  

You’re wrong about my claim that I blue D2 and O1. I only blue O1 and low carbon steels. D2 has 12% chromium and is therefore stain resistant, but not a true stainless steel. Even the name “stainless” is a misnomer, because in order to be classified as a stainless steel, the steel has to have over 13% chromium. Is that a magic number where corrosion automatically stops? No, of course not, it is just a benchmark used in the professional machinists and ANSI specs to classify steels. ALL TOOL STEELS CAN RUST AND CORRODE, EVEN STAINLESS STEELS! If you leave orange juice or blood on 440C, it will flat out rust and pit. Store the same corroded knife in a damp leather sheath, and your stainless steel will be reduced to a rusty bar of junk. It’s all relative. There is no absolutely corrosion-proof tool steel, but there are austentitic stainless steels that come close (like 316 and 304), but these are not hardenable, and not tool steels.

You say you don’t like the idea of having to spray or wax your knife blade, are you the same way about your firearms? Do you just neglect your blued firearms and let them rust? And you claim, “what a mess.” You’ve obviously not used any of the modern preservative products, because there is no “mess.”

Back to your initial question. Bluing DOES inhibit corrosion, and mirror polishing helps. After 25 years of experience making knives, including for active duty combat military, and having made about two thousand knives professionally, I can say that the owners of these knives are quite happy with the blades. Yes, they know that they have to take care of them, and even during long excursions, the steels hold up very well. It’s all a matter of preference. Some guys even like the patina and used look that comes with a high carbon alloy tool steel like O-1.

Your folder made of 154CM barely classifies as a stainless steel. It is essentially the same steel as ATS-34 in alloying elements. Since it usually contains about 13% chromium (ATS-34 Contains slightly more chromium , about 14%, so it is a little more corrosion resistant), that is why they included the warnings about rust on your box. The comment shows, however, how illiterate the company is about their own product. It isn’t carbon that makes steel corrosion resistant; in modern tool steels it’s the amount of chromium and other alloying elements as well as hardness and exposure to corrosive environments that determine how a knife blade resists corrosion through the years.

An O-1 blade, by the way, cannot and does not compare to 154CM, they are completely different tool steels. O-1 is a high carbon, high tungsten-vanadium alloy tool steel, and its main benefits are: ease of sharpening in the field, capable of a razor-keen aggressive edge, low initial cost, uniform hardenability with repeated tempering options, ease of machining, low overall cost, and ability to be …. Hot blued.

My name is Jay Fisher www.jayfisher.com

 P.S. high chromium stainless steels can be blued for color effect. The process is expensive and complicated, and few professional users or collectors are interested in it.

Q: How old do you think a person should be before getting then a knife, dagger, or sword?

--C. C.

A: Hello, C. Thanks for writing. I think it would depend on the person's parents and their upbringing. Some parents realize they have responsible children, and to have a tool which can be dangerous requires great care. I guess a good answer would be when they are old enough to know how to use a sharp kitchen knife.

--Jay

Would you please send me a brochure/catalog? Thank you in advance!

I do have one quick question: If someone wanted to purchase custom knives for investment purposes, is it a better idea to commission these knives rather than buy from the maker's stock? You are by far my favorite knife maker. Have been for years. I think your philosophy and endorsement of gemstone handles makes perfect sense.

Aaron T.

Hello, Aaron. Thanks for writing. Thanks also for your kind words about my work.

To answer your question, it makes no difference from the standpoint of investment value and appreciation of a collector's knife whether the knife was custom made or purchased from the maker's inventory. You'll get the lowest price from the maker either way, because as soon as the knife goes to a dealer or a collector, the price goes up.

The differences are that by ordering a custom work, you'll get exactly the knife you want, but if you see one you want in inventory, the big advantage is that you don't have to wait for delivery. For example, right now, my orders are running 9 months to a year. Several steady clients have put in extra orders because they believe my order period may be two years soon, and that can be a long time to wait for a knife.

In addition to the brochure, I'm sending you my CDROM catalog of my work, no charge. It's a full CD with over a thousand pics of my work. Let me know what you think of it.

Thanks Aaron,

Jay

I received Gemini today. It's incredibly beautiful! The pictures didn't do it justice at all. The file work is impeccable, the style of the blade is perfectly curved, and the Siberian jade handle is shockingly green. The knife seems to have been made for my hand. I am pleased I made the decision to buy it. It will become an heirloom to be passed down for generations. Thanks for all your fine work.

Most sincerely, J.H.A.

Hello sir,      

              My name is Joseph M. I am 24 yrs old and have always enjoyed the art of creation since I was a young boy. Iv always been interested in the beauty high polished rock and minerals, metals, and even glass. But lately I've been really involved in the creation of knives, and has developed as my dream to start a knife business. I am currently taking scrap metal from an arbor shop I work at to make knives. I'd like to thank you most of all  for the freedom of your work to the public and info you've provided on your website for all the knife hounds out there. you've been a great inspiration to the beginning of my new legacy in knife making. So to get to what I've been waiting ask you is, as a beginner in knife making, I was hoping you could spare me any of your knowledge as to how I could get started cheap. At the moment all I have is a 4 1/2" right angle grinder and a 16" bench grinder. What do I need? Id also really appreciate it if you could send me your brochure.

                                                                                     --your distant student Joseph

Hello, Joseph.

Thanks for your kind words about my work, and welcome to knife making. The first thing I’d suggest is to invest in some good books on knife making, and there are several good texts out there. That way, you’ll get a clear idea of what it takes, and you can develop a budget for tools. The tools, knowledge, and time are the most important things. I started out making knives with just a hand grinder and sandpaper, but it became clear that in order to produce finer works, a belt grinder was a requirement. If I had to start all over, the belt grinder would be my first consideration and investment.

Good luck! Jay

Testimonial:

Hello, I'm looking for a very strong gravity knife, and or stilletto type. I had one years ago and it broke from pretending it was a throwing knife. It saved me once from being mugged, and being im working late nite shifts again well. Any ideas cost material etc. would be appreciated. I'd prefer your strongest blade and handle combination coupled with lightweight strength.

R.L.

I do make fine folding knives, some unusual sliding blades, and other proprietary mechanism knives. There are several points to consider.

The term "strong" referring to a folder is tenuous at best. No matter how a folder is made, it has that inherent weak point: the pivot. Many attempts throughout history have been made to strengthen that focal point, yet no one can get around the fact that the most stressed part of the entire knife (the junction of the blade and handle) is exactly where we put that little axle to rotate it. Just look at fixed blade knives. They have heavy bolsters right where that pivot is...

It's easy to see now why so many of my military clients have insisted on full tang knives. Some even require the strength to "shove it in a rock and stand on it for an hour or two if needed."

If you are set on a folder though, I do make them. They usually come with close tolerance polished and hardened stainless steel bushings, replaceable springs, adjustable spring and lock tension. They break completely down for maintenance/cleaning with SS machine screws. They start at about $650. I don't know what your budget is for this knife, but I have over 160 different styles. Fixed blades start at $250, and quite a few of these are in the hands of military, law enforcement, and civilians who trust their lives to them.

Jay

Testimonial

"I received it Sat. It is a magnificent piece of workmanship. The engraving on the blade is
fantastic. The creative talons of ivory are a unique touch. The stonework is such as I have never
seen. Very original. Thanks so much. It is sharp too! It must be very gratifying to be able to make
a living from a craft you love..Thinking about another idea for a working knife…I’ll let you
know."
                                                                                                 -B.M.

Just one more question if you don't mind answering being that I am 19 years old, I am in search of a career but something that I am interested in and well I Love Knives! can never ever get enough of them! Well my question is this, as a custom knife maker Jay, Is knife making a rewarding career and if so how would I go about pursuing it? thank you for your time

Joe

Hi, Joe. 

What I often suggest is that young people try as many things as they can find that interest them, and one will survive, not because it’s productive, but because it satisfies an internal interest and keeps going within you. This is what I did; you can see it in my bio on my site. For me, knifemaking fit well, but I only knew that for sure after years of making. Other interests will always be with you, but some will stand out. Try every one that comes along, and remember that an education in any field will help you in a chosen one. For knifemaking in particular, there is no specific, accredited course or study format. It is actually a fairly rare tradecraft. The only one that may come close is jeweler or metals arts, which are both taught in universities.

Thanks, Jay

N.F., USAF Pararescue

Q: As I spend more and more time in the water and trying to hack my way out ouf the mess my dog gets me into I find I need a simple knife. My Ernie Emerson (no not Bench made) is great for a pocket knife. My Randy Martin is a spectacular neck knife but I need something affordable that can clear rigging, fishing line and nets on my rescue dives. I need a working knife that will take a licking and keep on ticking. I also can use a auto knife as MicroTech’’s Chameleons are dangerous (to my hands and my BDU’’s and the HALO’’s just don’’t hold up. The commercial dive knives just don’’t cut the mustard. Simplicity pleas with maybe ""That other’’s may live"" will do.
Thanks, D.W.

A: It sounds like you've covered all your bases, and you're looking for your number one tool. If you've perused my site, you've seen that I make quite a few, in quite a range for serious users as well as collectors.
Two particular models come to mind. I make an Instructor's knife for the USAF Pararescue School in ABQ. It is based on the PJLT frame: a clean, simple, no frills model with a tough ATS-34 bead-blasted blade, nickel-silver -or- 304 stainless steel bolsters, linen reinforced micarta handle, in a kydex and aluminum sheath. These models start at $250 for the N-S fittings, and go up from there. I can email you a nice jpeg picture of this knife, if you'd like.
If you are interested in the -ULTIMATE- dive-rescue knife, the full sized Pararescue is the ticket. This is one of the finest, toughest knives I make, and the feedback from military users is excellent. It is a heavy, tough, thoroughly waterproof model of 440C, 304 stainless bolsters, no filework to hold salt or debris, no milling under the full tang that could possibly trap water. It comes in a positive-locking sheath made of Kydex, Aluminum, and stainless steel. It is on the "Current Knives for Sale" page of my web site, look for the Ivory micarta handle.
Now, if you don't see what you like available, or if you have a specific budget in mind, I'll work with you. You might require aggressive rip teeth, a skeletonized handle, or special fitting requirements. I can customize, etch your name/unit logo/military flash permanently on the blade. I guarantee my workmanship for my lifetime. Who could ask for more? Jay

Testimonial

Hey, Jay!

Even my wife was awed! "Wow..." was what came out in a whisper! What a gorgeous knife, but clearly meant for its intended pupose. There is no doubt that P. will treasure it both for its beauty and for its utility. Thanks again for everything!

--E.M.

Testimonial

"I just received the Blackwater in the mail and I am truly astounded. Every aspect, tip to tang, is the work of a true craftsman. The photo was basically useless as a judge of the work, none of the details are fully expressed. The amazing geometry, the beautiful engraving, the complexities in the handle, the lines and the edge... oh boy. You realized that a knife is the whole package and you took time to perfect EVERY aspect. NO weak points, which is very rare on a knife as there will always be one thing I'm not satisfied with. What impressed me the most was the PERFECT balance. I have used thousands and own almost a hundred (from $4000 damascus folders to production neck knives) and I can say without question that this is the most balanced knife I have ever, ever had the pleasure to handle. It glides through the air like water. Beyond description. I can only dream of what a Katan by you would feel like. Add in the fantastic sheath and it is the best bargain on a knife I have ever bought. Jay thanks again, and from my son whom I'll no doubt pass this on too."

Andrew D.

Forum post by Jay:

Hello. In response to your posting on May 11, I'm one of those "blade masters" who used to post on (Name withheld) Forums for a while and don't anymore. Yes, I'm very successful, and extremely busy, but still take a few minutes every now and then with my morning tea to browse the forums.
I don't post because there are too many novices asking ridiculous questions and a lot of misinformation floating around. It's a waste of time to answer questions and argue with ignorance, no matter your dedication to the trade.
I am a professional, having supported myself completely with my knives and weapons for many years. The word "professional" is extremely important, my international clients and military depend on that attitude and perspective. Unfortunately, this is lacking in most of the commentary.
I understand how knife making starts: from an interest, to a hobby, to a craft, and ultimately art, but most makers are stuck in the first two categories. Numerous attempts have been made over the years to "Professionalize" our trade, but have failed in the light of bloated egos, flippant attitudes, and outright greed. I'd love to discuss some of THOSE stories...
I want you to know we are out here, blending science with art, on the cutting edge of technology and business, and available for any conversation you wish to initiate.
Jay

Testimonial

Dear Jay - just a short note to let you know that my cyele arrived yesterday and I put her right to work prepping dinner.

My initial impression is one of lovely lines, nice balance, and great artistry in her design and fine craftsmanship in execution. I own a number of custom kitchen blades, and your cyele is a standout in every respect.

Many thanks, Jay - and my deepest appreciation for your skill.

--Doug Cremer
 

["signature" graphic included with this email submission]

I was just wondering what it would cost for a dagger and a stand for it that was completely custom? I don't know much about daggers, but am looking at getting one for symbolic purposes. If I presented an artisit design, could you do it? Is your skill level able to pull off something from paper?

Q: I would like know the availability and price of this knife.
USAF Pararescue "The Kid."
I don't like to assume, Will it be suitable for Ocean diving?
Thanks, P.H.

A: I make "The Kid" in various forms. The simplest is bead blasted 440C Stainless steel with Nickel silver bolsters and bead blasted micarta handle with a clip type kydex sheath. It costs $245.00
"The Kid" pictured on my website under "Military and Pararescue" knives is the full blown model, featuring mirror polished 440C stainless with fuller (blood groove), 304 stainless steel fittings, Gemstone handle, double locking gravity hook blade (all stainless steel machined components with close tolerances) and a Locking stainless, kydex and aluminum sheath. It is "marine grade" salt water proof and costs $1200.00
There are variations between the two. Take a look at the fourth pic on my "Current Knives for Sale" page. This knife falls between those listed above. It is the only one I have available now, and can be custom engraved for personalization.
Currently, I have a backorder list from 4 to 6 months long. I would be happy to make you any knife of your choosing, just let me know!

Jay

Testimonial:

Got the knife today. Fantastic! Looks great. Do you make any Bowie knives? If so do you have
any pictures?

                                                                                                      --J.V.

Testimonial:

"I wanted to send you a short note to let you know just how much I am enjoying and owning the fine Muleshoe knife you made. It embodies the practical and the artistic brought together seamlessly by your marvelous craftsmanship. I look forward to using it for many years to come. Clearly a knife designed for use, it is also stylistically and elementally a true New Mexican knife. I really do appreciate it. Thank you again for coming up with a useful tool that is so beautifully evocative of the place I call home. I wish you the best of luck in all you do, and I hope you keep making knives for a long long time to come.

All my best, --J.L."

Q: I'm almost ready to send you send you my drawing. I re-did the whole blade after I thought about my fighting style. No more "impact weapon" butt-cap. It's a MUCH more elegant blade with a very strong emphases on the stab; similar to a Stiletto. You might think it's too thin width wise. Which brings me to my question about your kydex sheaths. I'd like to be able to strap it on my forearm, upper arm, lash it on a modular/ MALICE/ALICE vests, or the traditional way on my belt. I think a few of those options might require slot-holes on outer edges of the sheath.  Will the fact that the knife is streamlined also make the sheath itself extremely compact/thin? I can also draw that out as well if that's a little hard to picture. Thanks for your time.

A: I'm very interested to see your drawing of this blade. We can talk about the geometry then.

About the sheath: It's quite a challenge to have a "universal" sheath that fits all mountings. When I've attempted this in the past, the client usually opts for his main or sometimes secondary wear, foregoing some other options. The reason is that with a lot of options, the sheath becomes larger and larger, with clips and straps and rivets and rings... it gets pretty big. Some clients have multiple sheaths for a single knife, I've done this too. About forearm wear, this doesn't seem to work well, because the wrist end of the arm is so much smaller than the meaty part toward the elbow that when the knife is pulled, the sheath slides down the arm with it. I've seen this countered by a set of straps that goes up the sheath arm, around the neck on the opposite side! That's a heck of a lot of wear for what seems to be a simple sheath.

These are just some observations for your consideration. I'm looking forward to your drawings.

Thanks,
Jay

Q: I am a PJ stationed at the 38 RQS at Moody AFB. I was interested in having a modified version of the "Midnight" tactical knife made. What I am
interested in is having the more aggressive serration pattern and having the handle done in maroon linen with a lanyard hole. Also, I would definitely
want a locking sheath and loops for a belt and not a belt clip. If you could give me an idea of what that would run and a time frame on production
that would great. Thanks, K.C.

A: Hello, K.  Thanks for writing. Sure, I can do a Midnight Tactical in the way you requested. I need to know: Hot blued bead blasted high carbon alloy? (That's the flat black look) Or bead blasted stainless, or mirror polished stainless steel? The locking stainless sheath adds about $150 to the cost of the piece.
The prices range from $395 to $495 with micarta handle. I move PJs to the front of my job list, so I could probably work it in the next month or two.

 

Hoo Ya! Thanks, Jay

Testimonial:

"I have to search for words to describe my impressions.  My first impression was that the sheath by itself is a substantial and excellent piece, solid and well executed.  My second impression was, “Man, how do you get this thing out of the sheath!”, but that was a function of working the knife in and out a few times.  The Mercator itself seems to defy physics: it is a large, substantial knife, yet the balance is such that it feels like an extension of the hand and without significant weight.  The fit and finish are impeccable, the fit to the hand very natural…the Mercator just begs to be used!  However, I will leave that to the Special Forces Officer for whom it is intended! I am very confident that he will be very pleased with it!  Thanks, Jay, for your cooperation and craftsmanship.  I look forward to working with you on the new project!"

 Best regards, E. M.

Q: how would one get started in handmaking swords?  

                                            --S.A.T.

A: One would study and read every piece of material one could acquire on hoplology (the study of ancient weapons) and modern knife and sword making.

                                                                    --Jay

Testimonial:

"Dear Jay:

Yesterday I came home after a long day at work and was pleasantly surprised to see a box from you. That was fast, efficient service! When I opened the box I was blown away. Your knife was everything you said and more. It was not only beautifully made, comfortable to hold, magnificent to look at and sharp enough to cut a whisper, it was also well balanced and unlike most fine artwork which you are terrified to touch for fear that you might damage it, totally tangible. There is nothing like steel and stone for a combination. It feels better than any other knife I own and I have knives from many other great masters, Ray Beers, Reese Weiland and many more. I am not disparaging their work, they are masters and I will never trade or sell their work, but your knife gave me a totally different feeling. I have decided to try to buy one to two of your knives exclusively for the next couple years (depending on what I can talk you into)."
                                                                                                                           --D.K.

I was searching your pages looking for a gift for a friend. The Durango was very catchy. I would like to find out a price for this knife and if you have this in stock or something maybe fairly close.
Also, do you come to Tucson to the shows here any time ??
Thanks for your time,
                                                            S.C.

S.C.,
The Durango is a popular style, and I've made it in dozens of different handle materials. The price of a piece depends on the embellishment, handle material, blade finish, sheath or stand, engraving, etching, etc. Prices for the Durango start at $450 for an exotic hardwood or similar handle with brass fittings, and $650 for a gemstone handle with stainless fittings. I guarantee my workmanship and your satisfaction, if you receive the knife and don't love it, you don't buy it. My waiting period for new orders is six to 12 months due to my military knife orders.
I don't have anything in stock exactly like the Durango you highlighted, but I'll be posting some new models on my "for sale" page in the next few weeks. I can send you images, or we can discuss particulars through email.
The only show I'm doing this year is the Knifemaker's Guild in Orlando in July, but if you're ever in NM, stop by!
Thank you,
Jay

Q: Dear Jay:
I would be interested in ordering a knife. The pinon was the only one I saw on the web site and I found it very appealing, but would certainly be interested in your other models. I am looking for something "fancy", but not overly so. Please let me know the next step.

Thanks, G.H.
 

A: G.,
The next step is two fold. Size and price. Determine how much you want to budget for the piece, and what general size. Then we can discuss patterns, options, etc.

--Jay

Testimonial:

Jay,
Just visited your site and am looking for a dagger, having never owned one my first thought was Damascus but with financial reality it may not happen, my husband and I were particularly found of your Venus dagger, and would be interested in knowing how much it would be in a Damascus as well as the other possibility's. Thank You .....K & B F.

The price of the Venus dagger depends upon many things, as I make it in several different sizes and with different materials, embellishments, finishes, etc. A small dagger with clean lines will run about $300, medium sizes in the range of 600-1000, full embellished gemstone pieces on stands may run from 1500 on up. Are we still talking? Jay

Yes I believe we may still be talking.....was thinking something round about a 5" blade. Still stuck on the Damascus but would be open to any suggestions you might have. Having never owned a dagger myself am looking for something to go with a formal gown I have (Renascence type). My husband is a member of the E. Clampus Vitus organization and felt this style would make a nice touch to the gown. Still listening, look forward to hearing from you soon. K & B F.

A 5" Damascus blade would be a bit of an investment, probably 700-800 minimum, not including embellishment. The other problem is care and longevity. Good, bold patterns in pattern welded carbon steels are achieved by alternating layers of high and low carbon tool steels, steels that can be blued. Therefore, they can also rust. Just a little moisture left on this type of blade creates rust, and residing in a leather sheath can quickly rust the blade when moisture levels are only moderate. The third factor is strength, realizing that each layer boundary is a weld, and welds create stresses in the structure (but I know you're not too worried about that, right?). Of course, you can go with stainless Damascus, but that's more expensive.
For appearance, nothing beats 440C high chromium stainless die steel. It is hard, tough, finishes exquisitely, requires almost no care, maintains a high finish and is durable, and ridiculously easy to clean. This steel is the choice of military combat knife users, as well as police, bomb techs, SWAT teams, divers, and sailors. It is also the steel I use in all those beautiful art sculptures on my web site, on all the swords, and on the blade of my Partizan that is in the Tower of London.
Some collectors are even going to mirror finished hot blued blades, which can be jet black, cobalt blue, vermilion spotted, or straw gold, but these are simply oxidation processes that retard corrosion and can eventually wear off. I do those, too.
So, K., that might be more information than you require, so I'll hem it in some: I can make a 5" bladed dagger with hidden or full tang, high chromium mirror finished stainless steel, with a wooden or organic handle for $500, with a gemstone handle for $600. This would include a leather sheath. Embellishment: etching, engraving, lettering, mosaics, sheath finework, etc. would be extra.

How's that?
Jay

Testimonial:

Jay, what a truly incredible knife…! 

Every knife I get from you is simply a pure work of art. People say that about the software I write but in my case it can’t be held in your hand, admired for the fine creative lines of the scroll work, hefted in the hand for the joy of fine balance you have achieved or passed among friends for the look of awe and admiration it evokes. You are a true master.

Jerry M. Karnes

Houston, Texas

Hello, Mr. R. Thanks for writing, and taking the time to investigate my site and my work.

Yes, I do make handles out of other plastic materials. I have used and am using G10, nylon, delrin, and vulcanized fiber, as well as Micarta. I haven't used "soft" grips like Kraton, because, I believe, it has to be molded onto the knife, and flexibility might lead to durability problems.
Not many of my clients ask for that type of handle, either.

The serrations question you answered in a later email. I have several types of rip teeth, all very sharp and very thin. When I started making knives for the military, they requested teeth that work, that is: teeth that will cut, tear, and rip even if broken off. So I developed several different styles to accommodate directional cutting, cutting hardwoods, textiles, and bone.

About shiny blades: somewhere on my site (it's so large even I get lost sometimes!), I explain that military clients that carry mirror finished blades into combat are spraying them with camo paint, sheaths and all, then washing it off with lacquer thinner when they return from their tour. This way they've protected the finish somewhat, and had something very nice to hang on their wall afterwards, eventually to hand down to their children. At present, I do not coat blades  myself, because that would hide the grinds, hide any potential flaws, and chip and peel, eventually. I'll go on to answer here a question on your second email, about bluing. Bluing is a process of oxidizing ("rust" is a form of oxidation, uncontrolled and irregular). Hot bluing (which is what I do) is a controlled, deep passive oxidation process whereby the steel is cleaned thoroughly, chemically  and molecularly, then immersed in a superheated boiling solution of sodium nitrate and other salts, for 40 minutes or longer. This oxidizes the first several thousandths of an inch of the steel surface, which is a very deep penetration. The bluing process is the same used on all fine firearms, that black dark look that takes years to buff, scrape, or polish off. My process excels in penetration, where most firearms might be blued for 10-20 minutes, I start at 40. To give you an illustration, when I cut my makers mark into a blued blade using a diamond point engraver at 50 pounds per square inch, it takes three full passes to cut through the bluing to achieve a bright cut! To sum, hot caustic bluing is a well-recognized, time-proven method of inhibiting corrosion (not eliminating it) on the surface of steels. My own son (in the 101st Airborne) carries a hot blued skeletonized knife in combat in Iraq. So do his buds. They're very happy with the performance.

That being said, please remember, there is NO corrosion proof tool steel. Even 440C, which contains 17% chromium will rust and corrode in salts or acidic environments. Please look at my "care of your custom military knife" page on my website.

About the solid metal butt cap: There are several options, on a full tang knife, which is the strongest design, a supplemental bolster can be attached that will accomplish your objective. Extra care can be taken to attach it rigidly and permanently. The other option is a hidden tang knife, where the pommel is a butt cap, but it is not as physically strong. A third option is