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Custom Knife Handle Materials:
Woods
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Please note: I do not sell woods or wood stock. I only use woods on my
own knife handles. Please click
here
to find out what I do and don't do. |
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Questions, Answers, Pictures, Descriptions, and Synonyms of |
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Domestic and Exotic Hardwoods Used in Modern Knife Handles |
| Introduction: It
is my goal to make this the best page of exotic woods used in
knife handles on the net, period. I've worked hard to illustrate and describe
the woods used in custom knife handles, components, stands cases, scabbards,
sheaths, and fittings. Although I'm better known for my gemstone custom knife
handles, I've worked extensively with woods in this field for over 30 years.
I'll continue to add to this page as I complete new projects and find pictures
of other uses of these fine woods. All of the knives pictured on this page are
my own, all the woods listed I've personally worked with. The comments are based
on my personal experience with these woods. Remember, woods vary in appearance
and texture even within the same board, so there is no absolutely uniform
dictate on a particular wood's performance. Being porous, woods can absorb and
release moisture and other agents that they're exposed to which will
change their makeup and sometimes size. Details are answered below, but if you
have a question you can't find an answer for, please
email me here, so I can add it to this
information. Thanks!
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The ten most commonly asked questions about woods used in modern custom knives
| Why wood knife handles? |
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What is the difference between hard woods,
soft woods, and just plain wood? |
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Are there original or unique hardwoods
just for
knife handles? |
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What makes one wood usable on a knife handle,
and another not? |
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What about Pakkawood®, Dymondwood®,
and Staminawood®? |
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What is the difference between a burl,
straight grain, or wavy grain, figure, and texture? |
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Are some woods more expensive than others?
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What about the names of hardwoods?
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What about general descriptions of these
hardwoods? |
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Notes, disclaimer about web photos and wood appearance |
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On to the
woods! |
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The earliest knife handles were wood and bone, lashed to
a stone knife blade with sinew, tough strings from the gut of an animal
Why wood knife handles?
Wooden knife handles have been used ever
since the invention of the knife. Woods are organic, warm to the touch,
comfortable to hold, and can be long lasting. Wood handles are used on nearly
every kind of fine tool, instrument, or even
vehicles. Hardwoods exhibit a distinctive class of fine taste, and
throughout time, will always be cherished for their value. Hardwoods compliment
metals very well, and artistically are sound, choice exhibits. In knives, they
have been, and will always be a
standard.
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Coniferous trees have needles or are evergreen, and have
cones
Actually angiospermous trees: trees
that loose their leaves every winter, bear flowers, and have broad leaves
The heartwood of the tree is the inner core, extending
from the pith to sapwood, where live cells have been converted to gums,
resins, minerals, and other substances resistant to decay.
The sapwood is the living layers of the tree, is almost
always lighter in color and density than the heartwood, and is more
permeable to liquids and susceptible to decay.
What is the difference between hard woods,
soft woods, and just plain wood?
Hardwood actually refers to trees that are
deciduous. Soft woods refer to
conifers. Because most of the deciduous trees have wood that is physically
dense and more resistant to penetration, they were coined "hardwoods." This may
not necessarily be the case though, as some conifers have very hard, tough wood,
and some deciduous trees are fairly soft. There is also confusion about which
part of the tree has the most usable wood, and in knife handles, almost always
it's the
heartwood that is harder and more usable than the
sapwood.
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Are there original or unique hardwoods
just for
knife handles?
For example in the family of ebony (Ebenaceae), there
about three hundred species of shrubs and trees distributed throughout the
temperate and mild regions of the world
Looking at the availability of exotic
hardwoods, one would think that only a dozen or so rate for use on a custom
knife handle. This is simply not true as there are hundreds of applicable woods,
and many of these woods exist in a group that has
hundreds of species! Though it may be said that each piece of wood is
unique, many are so uniform that originality cannot be claimed. In example, one
piece of ebony looks pretty much like another, uniform and black. But most woods
exhibit some figure, color variation, or pattern that makes them attractive.
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like the high points of finger grooves, flutes, and
bolster dovetails
What makes one wood usable on a knife handle,
and another not?
Woods used for handles (any kind of handle)
must be fairly hard to be long lasting. They must be durable, able to hold fine
curves and
thin sections without breaking, chipping or splintering. They must be smooth
to the hand, polish well, and fairly close grained so debris, staining, and
contamination is kept at a minimum. And they must be attractive. Another point
not often considered is their tendency to expand an contract with moisture and
temperature changes. All organic materials change to some extent. Good
knifemakers strive to use stable woods and minimize movement that can loosen the
wood handle from the metal knife tang.
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What about Stabilized Laminates like Pakkawood®,
Dymondwood®, and Staminawood®?
These are actually plywood
products, usually constructed from birch. Dyes are vacuum
impregnated into the wood, then the wood is pressure impregnated
with polymer or phenolic resin at very high pressures, then highly
compressed into plywood blocks. With the high compression rates and
solid massing of the material, this creates a very dense, tough, and
solid wood product, that is pretty much waterproof when wet. Though
I don't use these often (some of the colors are quite garish), some
clients request them and I'm happy to accommodate them. These
stabilized laminates are very durable, polish brightly, and are long
lived.
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What about stabilized woods?
These are woods that are usually
too weak, too porous, or too plain to be used without treatment.
Like the laminates, dyes are vacuum
impregnated into the wood, then the wood is pressure impregnated
with polymer or phenolic resin at very high pressures. With the high rates
of pressure, this creates a very dense, tough, and
solid wood product, that is pretty much waterproof when wet. I use
stabilized hardwoods like Box Elder Burl, Buckeye Burl, Redwood
Burl, Olive, Maple Burl and a host of others. The process creates a
very durable wood, unique in color that polishes brightly, and is
very durable and long lasting.
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Coarse grained: wood with wide annual rings, easily
visible.
Close grained: Wood with narrow, hard to discern annual
rings
The figure of a wood refers to the variations in color,
arrangement of grains, fibers, and rays, the general attractive features
that make a wood stand out. Some people just use the term grain, but
technically, they are referring to figure. The more highly figured the wood
is, the more expensive and sought out.
Refers to the pores in wood, lightly pored woods have
thin, small holes in the grain structure, large pored wood (like red oak)
has substantial voids that must be filled or sealed to stop absorption of
moisture, contaminates, and soil. Generally, smaller pored woods make better
knife handles, unless stabilized
texture refers to the size and distribution of wood
elements, and also to the rays. The texture may be coarse, medium, uniform,
smooth, even, or uneven
What is the difference between a burl,
straight grain, or wavy grain, figure, and texture?
There are many terms used to describe woods.
In the descriptions below, you'll find terms to describe hardness, durability,
and appearance. Hover over these terms for the definition:
coarse grained,
close grained, figure,
pored wood,
textured.
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Are some woods more expensive than others?
You bet they are. Woods like
snakewood and
pink ivory come at a high price. Sometimes, certain cuts of woods (like
Desert
ironwood and burls) that show plenty of figure and interest cost up to ten times
per handle for the knifemaker, a cost that increases the value of the knife, and
the final cost of the knife to the client. There is also a lot of misinformation
on the internet and in reference books about woods, their availability and their
value (a good example is the listing about Desert Ironwood below).
Environmentalists will decry all cutting and usage of wood, yet most woods are
completely renewable, and many sources of "rare and exotic" woods we use come
from wood farms and plantations. It is in their best interest to hype woods as
extremely rare and irreplaceable, as this will drive the price up, giving
suppliers more profit. Could it be worthwhile for lumber interests to allow some
environmentalists claims to go unchallenged while the price of wood increases
because of "rarity" or "limited supply?"
There is also a difference in use and
volume. The smaller a piece of wood is cut, the higher the price per pound. It's
outrageous. In example, just go to a hardware store and look at a piece of all-thread rod. A
one foot bar will cost three to five times as much per foot as a six foot bar.
Why? Is the cut more expensive? Is the little piece more valuable per inch than the
larger one? No, the store knows that if you don't need a six foot piece, then
you're willing to pay more per foot for a smaller piece just to get the job
done. Knife handle scales are that way. You can go to Mexico and pay $30 US for
fifteen pounds of ironwood, enough material to make 30 or more handles, or you
can buy a pair of scales from a knife making supply company for $30 each. Sure,
you sometimes get to pick and choose the particular cut, and they do tend to
weed out the unusable scrap. But thirty times the price? Makers and knife
clients will pay that though, if they think they're getting something original.
Yet there are thousands and thousands of knives out there with similar handles.
There are more expensive woods, and there are less expensive woods. Many cost more
than the steel in the blade. The cost is not dependent on durability, hardness,
or longevity of the wood handle material, it is almost always the appearance.
And nearly all of them are beautiful in their own way. Of course, I have to
consider my costs, working costs and expendables, and rarity in the final
evaluation of the price of the knife, case, stand, or artwork, so that too,
figures into the pricing.
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What about the names of hardwoods?
Hardwood names can be bewildering. Every
country has a host of names all for the same wood, other countries name the same
wood in their host of names, then dealers and suppliers add their own
name to the wood, and before you know it the wood has twenty different names.
Take Ironwood, for instance. There is a lot of confusion as the term
"Ironwood" refers to many trees in many nations. The Latin term iron wood
is Pau Ferro, another host of descriptive wood types bear that name. It
seems that every country has some hard wood or tough tree that deserves the name
Ironwood, and there are over 80 distinct species from all over the world that
are commonly named Ironwood. Common trees that bear
the Ironwood name are: American hornbeam, Black
Ironwood, Desert Ironwood, Olive trees, Hop Hornbeam, Persian Ironwood, Ipe,
Ekki, Rose Chestnut, Ceylon Ironwood, Australian Ironwood, and even Lignum Vitae, the
densest wood known. Then there is Pau Ferro, Pao Ferro, Pao Fierro: from two
different continents, all different trees. Some of the woods referred to have
several species (and some have hundreds of species!), so the traits I've experienced and noted may not apply to all
the woods of the same name. At the synonym list at the bottom of this page, I've tried to nail down the types of
each, including cross referencing the common and trade names of the woods.
This page consists of a lot of research. I learned a lot compiling it.
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What about general descriptions of these
hardwoods?
I've compiled quite a bit of information on
this page, and in doing so, found a lot of errors in the texts of reference
manuals on woods, and on the internet. Some woods are listed in the books as
"non-durable," and in my experience, they are extremely hard, durable, and long
lasting. Many woods are listed as rare or nearly impossible to get, but look on
the internet and there are literally hundreds of sources to acquire them. The
information and descriptions below are derived from over 25 years of my
experience using the woods for knife handles, cases, stands, and in other
cabinet, furniture, and turning projects. So, while many dealers and suppliers
of exotic and domestic hardwoods make claims about their use, I've actually used
them, sawn, cut, drilled, carved, sanded, and polished them, and my clients have
used them in the field, in their collections, and even in active military
combat. I've applied that real world experience with valid information, to nail
down a specific description of the wood. If I've missed something,
please let me know!
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Notes, disclaimer about web photos and wood appearance
I've tried my best to give an
accurate color and figure rendering of these exotic and domestic
woods and handle materials. Some things to consider are:
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some woods change color over
time (mostly due to regular oxidation processes)
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some woods change appearance
when exposed to fluids or contaminates (some even change with
normal oils from human hands)
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the wood selected for handle
material may vary in grain, grade, and color (I can't regulate
the exact appearance, even in the same board stock).
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there may be additional
considerations that apply to your choice in a knife handle
material (like thin sectional support, impact resistance, and
texture)
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no two pieces of wood are
alike, even when bookmatched.
There are some considerations
also for photographic rendering of these knife handle materials:
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The color may vary depending
on original photography, scanning methods, color rendition of
editing programs, and the color setup of your monitor
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The color of your actual
handle may vary depending on the above factors and what light
and intensity you view it in (the color of light depends on the
source; florescent lighting, incandescent lighting, and daylight
all vary greatly in color)
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The grain and figure may be
more or less pronounced than the actual material. This is also
due to limitations and setup in the computer viewing components,
like the photo editing program, your monitor and settings, and
the horribly weak limitation of the internet overall, which can
only display photos at 72 dots per inch.
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Some pictures have been
borrowed from suppliers and sources, and I can't absolutely
guarantee their accuracy (but they're very close!)
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Wood Handle Material Descriptions
- African
Blackwood Dalbergia melanoxylon:
- Origin: Mozambique, East Africa. Exceptionally hard
and dense species, black, but not as solid black grain as ebony. Straight
grained. It is actually a rosewood, not an ebony. It makes a great knife
handle, and is strong, long lasting, a bit aromatic and holds details and
pins well. It is actually more stable than ebony. Used in musical wind
instruments (like clarinets, oboes and bassoons), bearings, pulley blocks,
carvings. Polishes smoothly, holds well, oily and resinous.

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Amaranth (Purpleheart)
Peltogyne spp. F. Leguminosae:
- Origin: Tropical America from Mexico to Brazil.
Moderately hard an medium dense hardwood, initially brown when cut, but
turns dark purple when oxidized or heated. Although a bit open grained for
knife handles, it offers interesting color patterns with torch work.
Straight grained. Polishes easily, slightly porous. Occasional streaks of
grain with white lines. Used also on cabinets, heavy outdoor construction,
gymnasium apparatus, diving boards, skis, chemical vats.
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- Arririba (Canarywood)
Centrolobium spp.:
- Origin: Brazil. From a small tree, color yellow to
tan with red and black streaks. Used also in naval architecture, cabinet
veneers. Polishes well, is very stable, holds its color which is bright and
interesting. Tight grained, stunning in knife handles, knife hard sheaths
and scabbards, and stands. Straight grained, some wavy grain.

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- Australian Blackwood
Acacia melanoxylon:
- Origin: Hundreds of species of the Acacia genus:
South America, South Africa, India, Australia, Tasmania. Despite the name,
the heartwood is reddish brown, bands of dark brown with a reddish tint.
Some oxidizes deep red over time. Makes a dense, tight, solid and long lasting knife
handle. It's very hard, moderately dense, straight grained, polishes very brightly,
with a fine finish, and is stable. Used in high quality furniture, billiard
tables, gun stocks, ornamental turnery and musical instruments.
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Birch Laminates (Stabilized)
Usually Betula papyrifera:
- Origin: Factory modified and created from birch.
These laminates are sold by the name Dymondwood®,
Pakkawood®, Staminawood®,
and others are vacuum dye impregnated and then pressure treated compressed
laminate plywood products. Most of the wood used is birch. These are tough,
durable, long lasting and waterproof wood products, and sometimes have bold
colors, stripes, and figure. They are a popular wood product for knife
handles, so yes, I use them too, occasionally. The shocking patterns can
look a bit ridiculous, so I try to stay away from the types that look like a
carnival clown. But, since I do custom orders, and clients get what they
want, some opt for these products because of durability as well as color,
and they are quite durable on the knife handle. Important: see also
my page
on man made handle materials which has extensive information on these wood
products here!

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Bloodwood (Satine)Brosimum paraense:
- Origin: South America. This is a fairly common
hardwood, bright blood red. Moderately hard, takes a good polish, very
durable and long lasting. Straight grained, heavy. I've used this in custom
knife handles for years, and in stands, hard sheaths, and fittings, it lasts
very well with moderate sealing with wax or cyanoacrylate. Used in turnery, fine cabinets,
ornamental woodwork. There are several species of this group, and some
distinguish between Satine, Bloodwood, and Cacique. The only differences
I've seen is that Caciqe occasionally has small white deposits in some of
the grain (silicates).
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- Bocote (Bucote)
Cordia alliodora:
- Origin: Mexico, Central and South America. A very dramatic
figured wood, with light tan background and sometimes wild dark brown
stripes in both straight grain and knots, occasional burls, and waves.
Medium density, very porous, takes sealers well, somewhat permeable. In
knife handles, great care must be used in finishing, as the grain
picks up polish and metal swarf, but once finished, is a bold and long
lasting handle. Used in fine cabinetry, furnishings. Mildly fragrant.
Porosity can be a problem when finishing, as it takes polish and debris
unless sealed.

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- Bois ď arc
(Osage Orange) Maclura pomifera:
- Origin: Southwestern United States. The name "arc of
the bow" is from the wood's use as bows for Native American tribes. This
smallish tree was encouraged in Oklahoma and Texas as hedgerow, and produces
some of the hardest, toughest wood in the Americas. It's been planted more
than any other tree in America. The wood is bright,
clear, straight grained lemon yellow in color. It is hard, dense, heavy, and
takes a bright glossy polish on knife handles or other implements or tools.
Care must be taken not to overheat when working with the wood, as it darkens
and burns easily. Little change occurs on the knife handle during aging.
When applied to a knife handle, it stands alone in color and clarity; I know
of no other wood that can be confused with Osage orange. The tree bears
inedible "oranges" and the wood has an almost citrus scent when working.
It's also been used for veneers, wheels, archery bows, accents in inlay and marquetry, and for dyes.

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- Box Elder
Burl Acer negundo F.Aceraceae:
- Origin: Northeastern United States. Box elder is a member of the
Maple family. It is a medium sized tree, and is planted often for shade, the
form of the tree has multiple branches and therefore whorls and crotches in
the wood. The
wood of interest in this tree is the burl wood, hard, twisted, knotted, with
beautiful figure, whorls, and curves. It is a favorite of mine in knife
handles, original, wild, and highly figured. The burl is often pressure treated and
impregnated with dyes and either polymer or phenolic resin (see stabilized
woods on this page) for a gorgeous knife handle material. As with all
stabilized woods, it is mostly waterproof, long lasting, takes a fine polish
and finish, and is very stable.

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- Buckeye Burl
Aesculus glabra:
- Origin: Central United States from Alabama to
Pennsylvania, originally imported from Germany. Most people know this tree
associated with the name "Buckeye" and Ohio, it is the state tree and the
name of college teams. Many people have seen the buckeyes, the seeds of the
tree, they are hard, dark brown, round about an inch in diameter, and
glossy. The are supposed to resemble the eye of a buck deer, hence the name.
The seeds are poisonous. The tree isn't much to look at, small to medium
sized, resembling a horse chestnut, with smelly twigs and flowers, and for
the most part the wood is soft. But the wood has rippled, wavy figures, and
the burl is magnificent when stabilized. I've used stabilized buckeye burl
for years and it makes a beautiful, serviceable knife handle. I've even got
a buckeye burl table in my home, and it has fascinating figure. The wood is
also used for paper, splints, wooden limbs, and veneers.

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- Bubinga
Didelotia africana or
Guibourtia Demeusei:
- Origin: Gabon, Camerouns. Reddish brown fairly
hard and dense exotic wood with interesting broad bands of figure, sometimes
wavy, takes a very nice polish and finishes well. Durable, resistant to
stains and doesn't darken with age. Varnishes or oils well. Makes a great knife handle, sheath,
knife case, or stand component. Used in veneers, fine cabinetry, building
small boxes.

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- Cocobolo
Dalbergia retusa:
- Origin: Pacific seaboard of Central America from
Mexico to Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua. This is probably the most popular
wood for fine knife handles and gun grips. It is a very dense, very oily,
very resinous hardwood. When first cut, it exhibits striking patterns of
color, rich reddish browns, tans, oranges, yellows, dark reds, and dark
browns and can be straight grained of highly figured. After a year or two in
service, it darkens considerably, sometimes to near black, but keeps some visual interest. It's
very stable. The wood gives off a rich, attractive odor when worked, but has
none when finished. This wood has a long reputation for dependability. It's
used for turnery, handles, bowling balls, sculpture, carving, scientific
instruments, boat wheels, forks and spoons, limited veneers, and wooden
jewelry. Working it is tricky, as the dust can induce a reaction similar to
poison ivy. I know of one knifemaker who can never be exposed to the dust
again, because of a severe reaction. I've used it for years, but take full
safety precautions. This has nothing to do with the final use, though, as
once it's finished, it's completely stable and non-reactive. Probably the
most popular material for handmade custom knife handles.

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- Courbaril (Jatoba)
Hymenaea courbaril:
- Origin: Southern Mexico through Central America and
the West Indies, Brazil, Bolivia, and Peru. This is a heavy, dense hardwood,
with reddish brown and darker brown stripes. Takes a very good polish, is
lustrous, rich, and seems to glow from within. Takes a very long time to
dry, I had a piece that took over five years to season before it quit
moving! It's difficult to work, but worth it. It makes a bright, glassy
polished finish on a knife handle. High shock resistance leads to its use in
handles, looms, wooden gear cogs, high class furniture flooring and stair
treads because of its great resistance to wear. It is interesting to note that the
tree is the source of copal, the gummy, resinous substance used to seal
boats, and in glues and adhesives. Ancient copal became fossilized, creating
the gemstone amber.

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- East
Indian Rosewood Dalbergia latifolia:
- Origin: India, Southern Asia, Pakistan, Sri Lanka,
Java. A medium density wood, naturally oily and resinous, but with large
open pores that must be sealed with a sealant, or debris will accumulate,
and polishing will dig out or undercut the sanded finish. Because of this
porosity, it's more suitable to knife cases, stands, and holders than
handles, in my opinion. It's dark purple with black streaks, occasionally
light to dark brown, reasonably attractive, and fairly inexpensive. Cracks
along the grain easily. Used in guitar fingerboards sides and backs, pool
cues, fine furniture, doors, veneers, shuttles, turnery, pens, furniture.

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- Ebony
Diospyros spp:
- Origin: Africa: Nigeria, Ghana, Cameroons, Zaire,
also Ceylon, India. A very popular exotic wood, in demand since ancient
Egyptian times. The heartwood is black, the sapwood is called "white ebony."
Straight grained, some curliness, fine, even texture, smooth, lustrous
finish. It's very stable, high in strength, and can be brightly polished.
It's been used in handmade knife handles for centuries, with dependable, uniform
results and longevity. Used in sculpture, carving, inlays, door knobs,
billiard cues, piano and organ keys, stringed instrument finger boards,
guitar backs, castanets, and for fine veneers.

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- Fruitwoods:
- Origin: Domestic. Fruitwoods used in custom knife
handles can be very stable, beautiful, and long lasting. Pear wood is rosy
pink, cream background, and fine and close grained, and finishes and
polishes well. It's used on instrument quality rulers and drafting
instruments and marquetry. Pecan, which is a species of hickory, produces
fine, even grained reddish wood with brown stripes. Some prime pieces make
great knife handles, cases, and stand components. It's used in veneers and
furniture. Apple, once cured, makes very fine knife handles, with close
grain, with a reddish brown color, and is used in golf club heads. There are
other fruitwoods and nutwoods that are suitable for fine custom knife
handles.

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- Goncalo
Alves Astronium fraxinifolium:
- Orgin: Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay. This is a very nice
hardwood, with striking patterns in medium golden reddish brown to dark
brown streaks and waves. It finishes well, is very hard and heavy, and looks
great on a knife handle, taking a glassy finish. Because of the wild
figuring, it's been used for picture inlays and is also used for dampers of
grand pianos, boatbuilding, fine furniture. It has a reputation for being
one of the most beautiful exotic hardwoods.


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Guayabillo (Verdolago) Terminalia oblonga or Terminalia
Amazonica:
- Origin: Tropical forests of Central and South
America. This is a smooth, even grained and textured wood, of fairly hard
and dense. The color is red-brown, with straight figure and darker brown
growth lines. It has high impact strength, polishes well, and is very
durable. I haven't used it much for custom knife handles, but like what I
have and will continue to use it in future projects. It's also used
extensively for flooring, decks, utility poles, tool handles, furniture,
turnery, structural timber, and veneers.

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- Honduran Rosewood
Dalbergia stevensonii:
- Orgin: British Honduras, Brazil, Belize. This
hardwood has a long history of usage and export, it's pinkish brown with
some purple and darker and lighter bands. It's hard, heavy, oily and
resinous, and makes a superb knife handle. The color doesn't change (like
cocobolo), and it takes a very keen polish and stays that way. It makes a
great knife handle, and keeps it's pattern and figure even through rough and
long term handling. It's used for the manufacture of xylophones and
marimbas, furniture, cabinets, bank fittings, paneling, carving, sculpture,
bowls. This is a very highly prized exotic wood rumored to be diminishing in
supply, but I see plenty of it on the market all the time. Makes me wonder
if this is a ploy to keep the prices high.

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- Honduran Rosewood Burl
Dalbergia stevensonii:
- Origin: Same as Honduran Rosewood above. Unlike the
listing above, this wood IS very rare; I was lucky enough to come across a
burl of Honduran Rosewood years ago, and have some of it left. I've never
seen any more of it it my whole career of knife making. The burl is filled
with knots, wild circular forms and waves, there is not one straight line on
it. Most of the ringed patterns are smaller than a dime, and it's hard to
get pieces uniform enough for a knife handle, but when I can, it's
worth it. Very beautiful stuff.

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- Imbuyia or
Imbuya Phoebe porosa:
- Origin: Southern Brazil. Chocolate brown to
olive-yellow, and may be variegated, fine textured, mostly straight grained,
but sometimes wavy. It takes a medium high polish. This is a medium weight,
medium hardness wood, and is decorative. I've had good luck with it in knife
handles, when well sealed, and it makes a beautiful case or knife stand. It
looks somewhat like walnut, but with more figure, and is used for cabinets,
furniture, joinery, sculpture, turning, rifle butts and gun stocks. Some
veneers are made from it.
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- Ipe Tabebuia
avellanedae:
- Origin: Tropical America. Olive-brown colored
heartwood, with yellow lapachol powder in the grain, so there are tiny
yellow lines in the finished wood. It's similar to teak in appearance.
Satiny finish. It's very dense, moderately hard, and very long wearing. The
grain is straight. It's not a common knife handle material because it's a
bit boring, with pretty much olive straight lines and bits of yellow. Good
for cases, stands and other decorative knife components. It's used for
decks, docks, fine veneer, railway ties, and work requiring high wear
resistance and resistance to decay. A very tough wood.
(Pictures Coming)
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- Ironwood
(Desert) Olneya tesota:
- Origin: Sonoran Desert, Americas. Ironwood deserves
special attention. There is a lot of confusion as the term "Ironwood" refers
to many trees in many nations. It seems that every country has some hard
wood or tough tree that deserves the name Ironwood, and there are over 80
distinct species from all over the world that are commonly named "Ironwood."
Common trees that bear the Ironwood name are: American hornbeam,
Black Ironwood, Desert Ironwood, Olive trees, Hop Hornbeam, Persian
Ironwood, Ipe, Rose Chestnut, Ceylon Ironwood, Australian Ironwood, and even
Lignum Vitae, the densest wood known. The Ironwood that knifemakers mostly
use is Desert Ironwood, that comes from the Sonoran desert in Arizona and
Mexico. It is very hard and dense, naturally oily and resinous, and takes a
very bright glassy polish. It's impervious to just about any thing, and long
wearing. The colors and patterns of Desert Ironwood can be wild and beautiful,
straight grained, or demure.
Some of it has an almost chatoyant (cat's eye) effect in the figure. In
custom knives, it's probably the second most common handle material, next to
Cocobolo. Outstanding pieces with high figure are very prized in the custom
knife field. It's also used in carvings, sculpture, and small boxes, as well
as inlay, accents, and even jewelry. There is a lot of information around
about how rare it's becoming and how hard it is to find, but it's commonly
for sale everywhere, and often marked up outrageously. There is a lot of
misinformation out there about how rare the carvings of ironwood are, but
one only needs to go to any market in Mexico, and you'll find hundreds of
badly done carvings out of really nice Ironwood at a very reasonable price
(they slab out nicely).

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- Kingwood
Dalbergia cearensis:
- Origin: Brazil. This fine wood is a member of the
rosewood family. It has a rich violet-purple striping to black, with cream
undertones. It has a fine texture, is uniform and mostly straight grained,
somewhat waxy, and finishes and polishes brightly. It's a very heavy, dense
wood, and moderately hard. The name is derived from its preference by French
royalty and the Georgian period of English furniture, and was the preferred
wood for thrones and royalty. I've used it
extensively in fine knife handles, and it's a great, long lasting, hard,
dense glassy handle, wonderful to touch. It's use is mostly decorative,
though, because the tree is rather small. Used in turnery, sculpture,
veneers, marquetry, and to restore that old French and English furniture.
Another wood claimed to be scarce, yet there are many sources of it.

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- Lacewood
Grevillea robusta or Grevellia sublimis:
- Origin: Australia and Europe. Often called Silky-oak,
but is not an oak at all. This is a striking wood, with a "basketweave" or
"fish scale" rayed appearance of the figure, from 1/4" down to 1/16"
lacelike patterns, though it's mostly straight grained. It is only of medium
density and light hardness. It's tan to shell pink and light brown, very
open grained, so sealing is necessary, but it makes a fine knife handle.
Long term, the grain raises somewhat, and that helps to increase the tactile
feel and grip on a knife handle. Also used in decorative boxes, marquetry,
ornamental cabinetwork, and veneers. In Australia, where it is common, it's
used as a shade tree, and the lumber for building and shuttering, wood
floors, plywood, and panelling.

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- Lignum Vitae
Guaiacum officinale:
- Origin: All of the central Americas, from southern
Florida to Venezuela. The name sometimes refers to three species of trees,
all called Lignum Vitae (The wood of life), whose resin was believed to cure
illnesses. The wood is greenish black, mostly straight grained, and
incredibly dense, heavy, hard, and tough. It's known as the hardest,
heaviest wood in the world. It's three times as hard as oak. Its density is
almost equal to iron, an it withstands a working pressure of 2000 psi! A
full one third of its weight is comprised of gum, so it's used in mechanical
devices such as bearings, and is resistant to most chemicals and decay. As
you can probably guess, it will outlast all other woods in knife handles,
and many manmade materials. Bearings have been made of Lignum Vitae and used
in clocks, fans, air conditioners, underwater marine equipment, and
hydroelectric plants. It's been used as thrust blocks, cable guides, wheels,
and propeller shafts for ocean liners. The ornamental uses are as sculpture
and turnings. As you can imagine, it makes an almost indestructible knife
handle.

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-
Maccassar (Macassar) Ebony Diospyros spp.:
- Origin: East Indies and Ceylon. This is a colorful
ebony, sometimes streaked with yellow or yellow-brown to golden lines. Like
other ebonies, it's hard, resinous, self-sealing and waxy with a fine grain.
It makes a stunning, rich knife handle. It takes a very bright polish, and
is very durable and long lasting. Also used in musical instruments for its
good tonal properties, and carvings, sculpture, furniture, inlays, and pool
cues.

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- Madagascar Rosewood
Dalbergia greveana:
- Origin: Madagascar, other islands. This is a very
dark, reddish, burgundy rosewood, which is dense and polishes well. It
maintains color well, is slightly open pored, but makes a fine knife handle.
Also used on musical instruments, furniture, and turnings.
- Maple, Rock
Acer saccharum:
- Origin: United States, northeastern. This is a very
well established hardwood, also called "Sugar Maple." There are two types of
maple, only the hard maple is used in knife handles. It is a moderately
heavy and hard wood, dense and tough, creamy white with a bit of pink, and
can be curly or wavy figured (fiddleback) or with bird's eye. The texture is
fine, even and lustrous, and it takes a high polish. Usually it is stained
chemically in the finishing process to bring out the chatoyant effect in the
wood before it is sealed. It makes a permanent, hard, tough knife handle.
It's been used extensively for skating rink and gymnasium floors, bowling
alleys, butcher blocks, musical instruments, piano actions, sporting goods,
furniture, pool balls, veneers, and the tree is the source of maple syrup.

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-
-
Maple (Fiddleback, Curly, Bird's Eye, Wavy, Tigertail, Tiger)
Acer saccharum:
- Orgin: United States, northeastern. Same in every way
to Rock (hard) Maple, but with wavy, curly, or bird's eye figure. Makes a
great knife handle, see Rock Maple above.

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- Mesquite (Honey
Mesquite) Prosopis glandulosa:
- Origin: Southwestern United States, Texas, New
Mexico, Arizona, Oklahoma. Also known as (go figure) Ironwood. This
is a medium density wood, takes a decent polish, but must be well sealed on
a knife handle, due to open pores. It is light reddish to pinkish brown,
sometimes with darker lines, and wavy to curly figure, and is sometimes
chatoyant when well polished, sealed and finished. Great in stands, cases,
knife sheaths, and knife components.

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-
Oak (American Red Oak) Quercus rubra:
- Origin: Though there are over 60 species of oak that
grow just in the United States, probably the most common oak used is red
oak. I've even got a tree of this in my yard, and it's beautiful in the
fall, with the leaves turning dark red. The wood of red oak is almost common
in the U.S., but as a general building timber it is expensive. I don't use
it in knife handles, it's too large grained and porus and needs a lot of
sealing, but I use it extensively in stands, boxes, cases and components,
mostly as base and foundation parts. It takes staining well, carves fairly
good, and is a moderately strong, dense wood. It's also used in furniture,
flooring, and joinery.

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- Olive
Olea europea or Olea hochstetteri:
- Origin: The Mediterranean, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda.
Also called "Olivewood," the small, twisted olive tree produces some fine
curly figured hardwood for knife hand
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